How To Connect Electrical Wires To Socket

How To Connect Electrical Wires To Socket – About: Made in Canada, I craft, craft and bake. Because of this love of design and creativity, I pursued a BFA in Product Design from Parsons School of Design in NYC. Since then I have worked for Martha… More about Paige Russell »

In this tutorial, we’ll start by laying the groundwork for all of your future lighting projects. We will learn:

How To Connect Electrical Wires To Socket

Knowing how to call correctly means knowing how to call safely! As we know, safety first! Second, third…

Wire Up A Fused Ac Male Power Socket

I’m not going to dive into deep electrical knowledge, but before we start there are some important points I want to share; Things will include the source of what the circuit is (the combination of the light bulb, socket, plug, and switch make one), the voltage (the flow of oil that lights the light bulb), the why when the lights are down, and what they do. they. It conducts electricity.

In our case, the circuit consists of a power source (breakbox > wall), two conductive wires (bulb cable) and a small lamp that attaches to the free end of the wires from the power source (socket and bulb). ) When the connection is correctly connected, the circuit is “closed” (controlled by the device) and current flows through the circuit and the lamp lights up.

The current flows through the lamp cable through the ‘hot’ wire and back to the source through the ‘neutral’ wire. As a result, most zippers (or zips) have two strands. Some cables commonly used for hanging have three wires and the third is called ‘ground’.

GROUND is an extra wire, a backup path, and provides a path for electricity to flow if there is a short in the system (ie: metal touching live/hot skin). Instead of in person, it’s over the phone. This will be in the form of a ring of three plugs or a green wire with some light wires (yellow in Europe).

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Due to the high quality of the modern lighting components, there is such a low power towards the touching parts of the lamp and as a result, most of the modern interior lighting is not established. (Portable = any lamp that is not mounted on a wall or ceiling.) Both wires of the cable (hot and neutral) are protected from exposed metal parts and from contact with exposed metal parts. light exposure. , no country is needed.

Electrical conductors are types of materials that allow electricity to flow in one or more directions. For this group we use metal in the light line and plugs / sockets, cables and terminals. It is important that no device comes into contact with ‘live’ metal, so although parts are designed to avoid this, your awareness of the risks is important.

Here is a short list of all the materials that should not come into contact with live metal in the lamp:

*Fun fact: graphite, which should not be attached to any live wires, is an excellent sealant for sealing socket wires! If you have trouble screwing the bulb into the socket, remove the bulb and apply graphite to the inner threads of the socket. And it was! The problem was resolved without any administrative disruption.

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Those laws still apply; Metals, water and our bodies are good conductors of electricity, so don’t mix any of these with live (for us, dead) electricity. Do not leave the fork in another store for any reason. 🙂

Luckily in this class, we won’t be dealing with direct current until we make our own project cables, so there’s no need to panic. Remember to never plug in one of your lighting fixtures until you’ve tried it. (More on this in Lesson 6)

When digging any material (ie: standard lamp base or shade), please wear safety glasses, don’t wear gloves! If the rotary part is caught in glove material, it can remove the glove and your parts with it. Of course, this risk is much lower with manual exercise, but it’s always better to be safe than sorry.

To learn better wiring, in the next few lessons we will make two small bulbs.

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Before you order the things you need (listed below), I recommend looking at the lamp functions I have included in Lessons 7 and 8, because if you choose to do one of them, you can use the others of the parts you already have. . I need those in this study.

Note: You can reuse everything from your lighting fixture – except for a short length of light cord – saving you $$ for future lighting projects.

Hardware stores have limited supplies of good quality lamp parts, but you can find some of the things you need there. The rest (or all) can be purchased online. In an effort to keep shipping costs down for you, most of the parts I link to are from Grand Brass, with only a few exceptions.

Www.grandbrass.com – Most of the parts I link to in this tutorial are from Grand Brass. They have almost everything. The only downside to them is that delivery can take up to 2 weeks if you live on the west coast.

Open Wires In Socket Of Electric And Appliances Stock Photo, Picture And Royalty Free Image. Image 116491218

Www.txlampparts.net – Texas Lamp Parts. They offer faster delivery than Grand Brass, but their selection is a bit limited.

Www.antiquelampsupply.com – Antique Lamp Supply has a limited selection, but they have a self-adhesive circuit that I love!

Www.mylampparts.com – Fitina Parts also has a limited selection, but they have the lamp base I wanted to make my Mug Stack lamps that I included in Lesson 8.

Www.sundialwire.com – Sundial Wire is a fully integrated wire manufacturer in the USA. Not all are UL listed.

Unfinished Electrical Mains Outlet Socket Electrical Wires Connector Installed Plasterboard Stock Photo By ©sinenkiy 319401330

All the following sections have many color options, so I recommend choosing a neutral color (or your favorite) that matches the work of unknown lighting in the future.

UL and the Canadian Standards Association (CSA) are two marks that you will see on lighting components in North America. These marks mean that the components required for all national safety standards for lighting components have been tested further.

I always recommend using professional parts, there is one side: covered cable. There are a few types of wire that are UL or CSA approved (carried by online retailer Grand Brass), but most are not. 🙁

If you are making lights for yourself or friends, use the phone of your choice! Although they are not proven, they are completely safe to use. If you plan to sell your lights, you should stick with a few colors/patterns that are out of warranty. The product description of all online lighting parts stores will tell you whether or not a particular phone has a certification number. It wouldn’t say ‘unproven’ if it wasn’t – it wouldn’t mention UL at all.

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The lightweight wire we use is made of 18 gauge wire wrapped in a thermoplastic coating. The cover protects us from shock and the charging cables inside the lights. There are cables made of thick and thin wire (22, 20, 16, 14 gauge), but the industry standard for portable interior lighting is 18 gauge, so we use 18 gauge specifically for of this group.

Safety Fact: In commercial wire gauges (AWG – American Wire Gauge), the lower the number, the higher the gauge! 16 gauge wire is larger than 18 gauge (hypothetical I know!) and can provide more power as a result. Large appliances will need more than 18 gauge, so don’t use light cord to power anything other than a dryer or light! If the appliance draws more power than the wire’s rating can handle, it can overheat (and cause a fire).

But don’t worry, if you use 18/2 and 18/3 cable for all your lights and use your cable correctly using the certificate, you will never cause a fire. The light cable is specially designed for this application.

Note: One of the great benefits of making your own lights is being able to choose the color/type of wire so that it “opens up” to fill the light or is more visible depending on what you want. So I’ve listed the color options for each yarn type.

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SPT-1, 18/2 – SPT, also known as zip cord, is short for Stranded Parallel Thermoplastic. This means that the two wires (Hot & Neutral) are parallel

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