How To Make A Miter Saw Table – You must have this DIY saw station in your workshop! Combines four large devices in one small space to maximize space and productivity! My woodshed is in a one-car garage in the basement of our house, and space is always an issue! I’m always looking for ways to squeeze more resources into this small space and still make it work. My front miter gauge saw my front stand was out of sawn (opinion given). 😉 It was on wheels for easy mobility, but it was so big it had nowhere to go! And it took up a lot of space with just one device. The “wings” on either side of the saw are used to support the wood when cutting, but are good for nothing else. I didn’t bother to restore the Kreg Stop Trak and wire extension, when I upgraded to a new saw it was just a blank space. I had to drive down the road with a fat planer every time I wanted to cut a long one! New Sawmill Station Features I’ve tried to add as many tools and features as possible to this sawmill station! Depending on what you have and use regularly, you can customize different tools in each section. The top holds the saw itself, with large work areas on both sides that can be used for splicing or gluing. away. A base with a lift to raise and lower the belt sander under the work table to make work easier. Glide rest that slides under the saw when not in use. A router table that fits under the large side of the chainsaw station and pops out when needed. The miter saw dust collector mounts to the dust collector wall and has piping and accessories hidden behind the back legs. Lots of storage space! You can find miter saw station plans by clicking the box below. Do you need a complete set of four woodworking plans, including a router table, a planer stand and a stand and lifting tool? Click here for bundle discount! Thank you for your support! Are you ready to build a table saw? This is what you need! This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. Purchases through these links may earn a small commission at no additional cost to me. Visit my advertising page for more information. Woodworking station materials 2×4 boards (8 feet long) One piece of ¾” plywood. You can cut the wood yourself with a table saw, miter saw, or circular saw, or you can have the parts cut to size at the store. 2 ½” pocket hole screws Drill Miter Saw Level Square miter saw Construction Station Instructions Don’t forget to download and print your sawmill plans before you begin! You’ll find all dimensions, a cutting list and a sawn plywood drawing, and detailed instructions with 3D models for every step of the build! building the sides Last week I wrote a more detailed tutorial on how to make the right side of a puzzle, which you can use as a separate tool for the puzzle. Join the legs, then attach the stretchers to the top and bottom to join the legs. The right side is a great version of the left side, but I had to adapt to make it work with an old wash hook behind it. There’s a lot of weird stuff hanging on this wall and I’m so glad I can hide it all! 🙂 Cut the plywood so that the top fits the frames and make sure both sides are flat. By some miracle mine died without a nail! Install Miter Saw Platform The cutting surface is on the platform lower than the sides of the saw so that the entire surface can be cut. Measure the length of the saw to determine where to install the platform. Mark this height on both sides and hold the platform supports so that the top of the plywood is on this mark. I attached a piece of plywood to the top of the 2×6 I used for the posts so I could find a place to put them. Once everything is aligned, rotate the platform that supports the two sided legs. Measure the full range of motion of the miter saw and move them until they are wide on both sides. Cut a piece of plywood to open the opening, then slide the plywood over the platform supports. Place the miter saw on top and make sure the length and width are correct before placing the cross braces underneath. I used a metal ruler to make sure everything was level. Excellent! If the miter saw sits low, you can add straps to raise it to the correct height. If it is too high, the lower supports must be reinstalled. Once everything is in place, add the cross brace. These pieces hold the two sides together and prevent the plywood from sagging under the weight of the saw. I attached the backrest to the wall to avoid the drying area so the plywood only rests on top. Adding a dusting kit I’ve written a lot about my attic saw dusting kit over the years, and I’ve been thinking about making a vacuum cleaner for this site. The old boy’s light steel frame, constructed from a roof, began to bend and give way. In addition, I no longer had a saw with a long rear rail that took up all the space. My new Bosch Glide range can go on the wall! So I reused the dust tube from the old dust container and put it on the back of the new saw station. I also dug a hole for the dust pipe to go through. Both hoses connect to the lower Y-split and run behind the chainsaw station legs to the dust collection wall. Instead of having to clean the channels all the time, I simplified the dust collection system with a 3-way Y-passage and three jet ports on the side of the saw station. Each unit gets its own connection and minimizes lines to improve overall airflow. Add a T-track and stop block (optional) The stop block allows you to measure once and cut multiple boards to the same length. I liked the Kreg railstop system on the old saw blade, but I didn’t like how it divided up the workspace. Instead of a straight wire with a t-track on top, I decided to leave the t-track on top. Now I can only use my 36 inch deep work surface for cutting! I can slide some accessories onto my t-track table to make assembly easier or to hold the board in place while sanding. about 5 cm before the wire saw wire on the left side of the track. Set the straightedge so that the router cuts the plywood surface in a straight line. I used my watch track and held it in place with these new tools Bessie sent me to try out. Keep them firmly in place so you always get a perfectly cut line! I’ll be writing a full tutorial on how to use the pad saw soon, so stay tuned! Using a ¾” straight end on the router to the depth of the track, I cut a slot into the top of the saw station. It was a little nerve wracking and very tedious, but it worked like a charm! I used this track kit, which comes with the track, nuts and bolts you need. Cut it to size with a miter saw, slide the rail into the slot and screw it in place with a flat head screw. The leftover nut is my cutting board project. So I keep each small piece of hardwood! 🙂 Have fun with your new saw stand! I really like how this whole saw stand is put together! for other projects in this building complex
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