How To Make An Outdoor Lounge Chair

How To Make An Outdoor Lounge Chair – The outdoor lounger gets a modern twist! Build your own and save money using off-the-shelf lumber and step-by-step plans

This plan fits 48″ x 30″ and 24″ x 30″ backs. You can easily change the dimensions to fit different sized pillows.

How To Make An Outdoor Lounge Chair

We have also designed Double Width Outdoor Chaise Long Plans suitable for your convenience. You can find those plans here.

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You’ll have 1×4 lumber left when you’re done. We plan to use the leftover 1x4s to build the side table.

Side table plans are here under double chaise longue plans (scroll down).

This plan has been updated to increase the strength of the base (1x4s instead of 2x4s). The overall appearance has also changed. If you want the old plans, you can find them here.

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To build this chaise longue, you can use rock support (recommendations for pocket holes shown above) or self-tapping wood screws.

The advantage of pocket holes is that there are no visible fasteners. This may or may not matter to you as it covers all fasteners if you use a pillow.

When connecting 2x to 2x boards, setting is done with 1-1/2″ by 2-1/2″ screws. When joining 2x to 1x boards, use 3/4″ and 1-1/4″ set screws.

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Mark and drill all pocket holes before assembly. The assembly order may differ from that shown in the pictures

Make the frame using 2-1/2″ screws or a rack support. Make sure the frame is very square.

Construct the back support as shown. Make sure the 2x4s are set 2″ from the ends of the 2x2s.

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You can change positions, just make sure the stop blocks don’t interfere with the flat back closure.

Now take some 1×2 scraps and make stops as described above to hold the prop. You can place them wherever you want. I wanted to create an outdoor lounger that was very comfortable but had a soft and clean profile. After a night of sketching, this is the shape I came up with.

I started by drawing the shape of a chair on my shop floor with a piece of chalk. No sketches or templates, just go for it. I’ve provided some important measurements in the image above to help with overall proportions and measurements.

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Once the outline was complete, I cut a length of 2×12. I cut them a little bigger to make sure there was enough room to cut the seat.

I used dowels to join the boards. With the grain position parallel to the ground behind the seat, the dowels should help prevent splitting.

After sketching out the shape of the chair, I used a jigsaw to cut it out. It’s not very accurate, but I’ll clean up the cut later.

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I used a belt sander to smooth both sides and shape.

After sanding both side faces, I used a router bit to round the sides so the corners wouldn’t split.

I cut the 2x4s into 3/8″ battens and cut them into 24″ pieces, trying to avoid knots as much as possible.

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I used a drill press with a stop block and fence to quickly make repetitive holes. After drilling the holes, I countersunk all the holes.

With the slats prepared, I drilled holes in the sides and attached the slats. As a spacer, I used another slate on her side.

I used 2×4 braces on the bottom and back of the chair to keep everything strong. I chose to use pocket holes so the screws wouldn’t be visible. If you don’t have a pocket hole puncher, don’t worry, you can always screw a 2×4 from the outside of the seat.

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That’s it! I hope you enjoy it and go out and make your own. If you do, don’t forget to tag me in a picture with her! Chaise lounges can seem like an intimidating project, but if you have good plans, they’re no harder to build than a chair or bench—it’s just a matter of measuring and cutting. These DIY chaise lounge plans will show you step-by-step how to build your own chaise lounge.

Since these chairs will be used outside, I recommend using a good weather resistant wood like cedar (or teak if you really want to go high end). However, pine is fine as long as you paint or seal well.

The first step is to create a simple box for the outer frame of your lounger. Use wood glue and pocket screws on the inside or finish with nails/screws on the outside.

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After assembling the outer frame, it’s time to assemble the inner frame which will support the lower slats of the seat and the upper slats of the backrest. All of these pieces are offset from the top of the outer frame by 3/4″ (the thickness of the slots) so that the slots are flush with the outer frame.

I like to assemble all the inner frame pieces first to make sure they fit inside the outer frame properly, but assemble the inner frame separately before attaching to the outer frame. This method allows you to fasten/screw 26″ boards to 44 1/2″ from the outside instead of using pocket screws or trying to bolt them together.

This step is very easy. Starting 1/4″ from the bottom of the outer frame, attach the 1×3 slats to the inner frame. You don’t necessarily need to use wood glue here, as gravity will hold them in place – especially when you add nails or screws to each of the four support plates.

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Now that you’ve assembled the stationary parts, it’s time to move on to the moving parts. Start by cutting four pieces of 1×4 to 34 1/2 inches, then cut a 3 1/2 inch radius spring on one end to allow the backrest frame to rotate in and out.

Now you will attach the thirteen 1×3″ slots to the back support. You start with the bottom slot, making sure the edge lines up with the bottom edge of the back support. Note: For this first slot, you need to round the bottom edge so that the back can rotate freely. Continue attaching the remaining twelve slats using the same screws or nails as the bottom slats, leaving a 1/4-inch gap between each.

After attaching the slots, it’s time to attach the two 1x4x2″ spacer blocks to the outside of the outer back support pieces. They should be offset 1/4 inch from the bottom end of the backrest support.

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The last thing you want to do when building this section is to drill holes for 3/8″ screws. Two holes (one on each side) are through the spacer block. The center of these holes should be 1 inch on each side and 1/3 inch below the slots. The carriage bolt rotates the backrest into these holes, so it is important that they are in the correct position.

The other two holes are for the support arm carriage bolts. They should be placed 15 3/4″ from the nearest edge of the support blocks and 1 3/4″ from the edge of the slab.

Now that you’ve built the backrest, it’s time to assemble and attach the support arm, which will allow you to adjust the angle of the rest of the backrest. So you need to drill a hole in each end of your 1 x 2 x 19 1/2 inch board. At one end you will drill a 3/4 inch diameter hole for the dowel. This hole should be placed 3/4″ from each edge of the board. The hole at the other end of the board should be 3/8″ for the carriage and 3/4″ from each edge.

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In the holes you drilled, attach the arms to the inside of the outer back support plates, using 2-inch screws, and slide a 3/4-inch dowel into each end with an even overlap. .

Attach the backrest to the inner frame. Mark where the 3/8″ screw holes line up with the outer frame, drill these holes and use 3″ screws to attach them.

Attach the 24″ 1×2 board to the bottom of the top board of the inner frame so that it is 2 1/4″ below the top edge of the outer frame. Then attach each 1 1/2″ block 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 3/4″ starting 1 1/2″ from the top inside the frame plate.

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