How To Make Resin Table At Home – Do you want to bring the beach indoors? Here’s a step-by-step guide to making a sea table with concrete resin and epoxy.
Don’t want to leave the beach at the end of your vacation? Bring it with you with this side table that resembles a cross section of the ocean.
How To Make Resin Table At Home
Bob Claggett shared a video of the project on his website after being inspired by the river table and his wife’s love of the ocean. The project took about a week to complete when you factor in setting and drying time, and it took Bob three tries to get it right. In his videos he shares his top tips for concrete and epoxy processes and here are the steps.
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Cut the melamine to create specific shapes. You will need a bottom piece that is the same length and width as the size you want your table to be, and four pieces for the sides that will determine the height. Make sure these two pieces are slightly larger than the others for a secure look.
Use screws to attach the side pieces to the melamine base. Then cut small pieces of melamine to mimic the shape of your inlaid table legs. Cut a piece the width of the leg and a smaller piece to make up the difference in width on the other side. Glue the two pieces together with CA glue and then place them in place.
Finally, seal the mold with silicone sealant at each seam. Also seal the cut edges of the melamine to prevent the concrete from sticking. Use mold release to remove corners and sides from concrete and epoxy.
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After the putty has dried, clean the mold. Then follow the directions for adding water to the concrete mix and prepare it in a large bucket. (See Roger Cook and Kevin O’Connor for some tips on working with concrete.)
Raise one side of the form a few inches (Bob used a piece of melamine) so you can angle the concrete. This will show the effect of the sea deep.
Pour slowly, then take your time shaping the concrete so that it looks like a beach when placed in the mold. Bob made the base thinner on one side and thicker on the other, then added texture to the concrete seabed to give it a more natural look.
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Remove air bubbles by running a vibratory sander (without pads) around the sides of the mold. Cover with plastic and let it harden for about 48 hours.
Adjust the fence on your desk so you can carve out four square feet for your desk. These dimensions should match the size of the liner made in your concrete formwork. Carefully clean and sand the legs and select the side of each leg that you want to face out on the table.
Bob used wood from the same location to cut four pieces for cross bracing. He shortened this length, but slightly longer.
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After allowing the concrete to dry and harden for a few days, vacuum the sides of the form to remove excess concrete and dust. Next, set up the mold for the epoxy by extending it in the opposite direction you did when you poured the concrete.
Next, proceed according to the specific proportions and procedure for preparing the epoxy resin. Add blue resin dye (Bob added 10 drops) to give the epoxy a marine color. Pour the first batch of epoxy and adjust the mold by hand to make sure it covers the entire base and reaches the corners.
Set lightly with a heat gun, which will also release any air bubbles that start to form. Continue adding epoxy until the table is at the correct height, waiting 4-6 hours between each addition. Bob used 2 gallons of epoxy, divided into 4 separate batches. After adding the final coat and using a heat gun to remove air bubbles, allow the epoxy to cure for 48 hours.
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Avoid cracking by laying below the maximum thickness recommended for each casting. If cracks form, you can carefully repair them by pouring epoxy into the cracks after they have set for 4-6 hours, then heat melt the area before pouring the rest of the epoxy into the mold.
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Unscrew one panel at a time using a mallet to pry the pieces of melamine from the dried concrete and epoxy. Then use an orbital sander to remove the residue. Do not forget to sand the edges of the table, which may be sharp after the epoxy has hardened.
Unmolding should help remove the sides and corners, but if they stick, use a mallet and chisel to pry them out. Secure any epoxy corners that break off and reattach with CA glue after the first sanding of the table is complete.
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Go back to the cross brace you made before adding the epoxy and cut it to the final width and length. One pair goes under the table and the other reaches the end of the table legs.
To create an X shape, set a stop at each end of the cross section sled. Cut the center of two of the four pieces of cross brace wood in half.
The legs will need room for cross bracing. To do this, start by cutting a 45 degree angle from a 2×4 to act as a support for your cross sled. Draw a line where you want to cut the legs from the cross brace, then set a stop so you know where to cut. Hold the leg piece against the baker and cut a few small slits to create a flat dado in one corner. Repeat this process on both ends of each leg. Then clean up the cut and level the groove area with a chisel.
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Arrange the legs and cross bracing and attach the table dry. If you want to add some reinforcement to the table structure, add a screw in the center of each X from the bottom. Apply glue to each piece on the table leg, then use a mallet to tap it into place. Wrap the rope around the frame to secure it while the glue dries. Add the table top to the frame to make sure the frame holds the correct shape. Then let the frame dry.
Using spray adhesive, attach the 400-grit sandpaper to the wood block and sand the entire surface of the table. Then wet sand the table, starting with 400 grit paper and working your way up to 1500 grit.
Although Bob didn’t do this when making his table, he recommends sealing the concrete during the process to prevent it from discoloring during the polishing process.
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Then use a polish with two different compounds to smooth and shine the table, sanding and buffing as needed. That’s what Bob did all afternoon.
Attach high-grit sandpaper to the orbital sander and give the frame a final clean. Then Bob used Danish oil to stain the frame. (See tips on staining and finishing wood furniture from Kevin O’Connor and woodworking expert Bruce Johnson.)
After the frame is dry, place the table top in the frame. Thanks to its weight and frame construction, it stays in place. In addition, it will allow you to more easily remove the table top from the frame if you want to polish or clean the table top.
How To Build A Live Edge Epoxy Resin
Get the latest Old House news, trusted tips, tricks and smart DIY projects from our experts – straight to your inbox. The epoxy resin river table is a beautiful and amazing part of home design. Want to make one of those unique “river” model tables but don’t know how? In this tutorial, we’ll show you a step-by-step guide – how to make your own resin river table! With the right direction, it’s not as hard as it sounds! Follow these simple instructions and tips to create your first river table!
The resin river table is a unique piece of furniture made from resin and wooden boards. The idea to create an interesting table came from America, a few years ago this idea spread to the whole world! The stunning design of the table is luxurious, modern and radiates energy. This table made of resin wood will look great in your office, living room, apartment or workplace – in a restaurant.
So let’s talk about contrast through the combination of wood and colored resin. The peculiarity of these pieces of resin and wood furniture is that everyone can decide what color of the river table they want. No wooden table is the same from manufacture to store. Each river table is unique with different design details such as neutral color schemes, whimsical looks in bold colors. You can add various things to the crystal clear river table, such as pills, cards, money, leaves, sand
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