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How To Build A Paper Table

How To Build A Paper Table – Our favorite little girl turned 3 this year, so of course – being the masters we are – we had to do something for her birthday. We’ve already made this bookshelf/toy box for her first birthday…but ran out of time last year and had to go Dora/store bought a second time.

Now back to this year’s workshop on making a pint-sized craft table with paper rolls attached.

How To Build A Paper Table

How To Build A Paper Table

I saw a children’s craft table for sale online a few months ago and said to Tom, “We have to make this!” Of course he agreed – happy wife, happy life. Once we got it planned out, it took us a week of brainstorming and a lot of tweaking before we came up with a design we liked. We even went to Ikea in a blizzard to look at their desks and pick up rolls of paper – the only place we could find 18 inch rolls that weren’t 1000 feet long.

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Since we used solid 20″ x 36″ shelf board for the table top, there wasn’t much else to do other than flatten it – especially the edges and corners. We don’t want unnecessary injuries (us or the birthday girl).

How To Build A Paper Table

The day we went material shopping, we couldn’t find 2×2 selected pine boards for the legs, so we bought 2x4s and cut them to size. In hindsight, it might have been easier to buy 2×2 knotty pine because the quality is almost the same, but at least by planting the wood we knew our table legs were perfectly straight.

To improve the profile of the table a bit and give stability to the legs, we added a 1″ x 2″ apron around the outside. The apron is placed about 3/8 inch from the edge of the table. We joined the pieces with simple butt joints instead of notching them using wood glue and countersunk screws. I like the simple look and the fit is tight – but if you liked the beveled joint, go for it! The apron frame is then attached to the table top with additional countersunk screws, the table top underneath.

How To Build A Paper Table

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The legs are attached to the apron at each corner with two (countersunk) screws. Since the roll of paper hangs under the table, the legs on that side should be about four inches from the edge. To secure these legs, we added another section of the apron to the top of the table, parallel to the last one. The legs are then attached to this inner fold.

We discussed a lot about how to attach the tray and roll of paper to the table. We decided to cut a notch on each side of the table where the top plate would fit so we could attach it to the apron and the end of the table top. There’s a lot to consider here – how low do you want the roll of paper to hang? How far do you want to retract the roll from the end of the table? How high do you want the tray table to be? How extensive support do you want?

How To Build A Paper Table

Once you know how far apart you want the roll to be and how wide the brackets are, you can cut notches on the board the same width as your bracket pieces. Our support pieces are 3/8″ thick so they are flush with the apron and flush with the outside edge of the table.

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Fun fact: The brackets (and sides of the tray) were made from leftover boards from our old house board and batten project. Nothing is wasted here!

How To Build A Paper Table

Before cutting the brackets to the desired length, we held them in place and moved them up and down until the top and bottom of the table were at a comfortable distance. We drew a faint line on each bracket where it meets the table top and measured/marked for each top and bottom cut.

Before attaching the brackets to the table, drill a hole in each to accommodate the dowel for the paper roll. This hole should be at least twice the size of the dowel so that it can be easily moved in and out when changing. paper.

How To Build A Paper Table

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The bracket can then be attached to the table. We just used some finishing nails to secure them in place and then countersunk the screws to secure them in place.

The container is made of thin wood with a piece of plywood for the bottom. A slot is cut 3/8″ down the side of the drawer. This slot is the same thickness as the bottom of the drawer.

How To Build A Paper Table

Once assembled, the tray slides into the slot below and locks into place. We designed the tray so that the bottom of the tray has an edge to which the vertical support is attached. Otherwise the operands have to be outside the drawer (not so good) or attached directly to the bottom (not fixed).

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The drawer sides are joined at a 45 degree angle (corner joint) so it doesn’t matter if the groove goes all the way, but if you’re using a butt joint, you’ll want to stop before the gap ends. Go so that it is not visible from the outside. You’ll probably want to practice on some of the bits as it can be tricky.

How To Build A Paper Table

We took the three sides of the tray, made sure the grooves lined up all around, then glued and nailed them together. The drawer bottom slides into place and attaches to the fourth side. We designed it so that the tray has three metal strips for felt-tip pens, brushes, etc. and a separate compartment for crayons, erasers, and more. To create the separate sections, we added a partition across the width of the tray, secured it again with glue and finished with nails.

Another piece of wood you need I don’t know what to call it. This is a spacer that goes under the drawer to give it bottom stability and hold the vertical support in place. This piece of wood will be the same thickness as the bottom edge of the drawer (flush when placed in place) and the visible length of the bottom of the drawer will be less than the thickness of the vertical support. The brackets will be sandwiched between the drawer edge and this new spacer, preventing them from turning.

How To Build A Paper Table

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Attaching the drawer to the support required both of us to work together (!!!) with one person applying light pressure to the support while the other held the drawer up. Then after applying wood glue to the horizontal spacer it was pressed into place under the drawer. Using glue gives you time to get everything perfectly aligned and aligned before it hardens. Once all the pieces were in place, we attached the tray in a few places to keep the spacer solid on the bottom. End nails provided support for the drawer.

We spent some time figuring out how to keep the paper flat when laying it on the table. A folding arm would have been nice, but we were afraid it would eventually break. And a steady hand means the paper has to be fed in every time – not very convenient for little hands. We came up with the idea of ​​placing magnets on the table and buttons attached to metal washers between which the paper can be pressed.

How To Build A Paper Table

Magnets are very easy to install. You will need a drill bit the same diameter as your magnet – ours is 3/4. Mark where each magnet will be and drill the table a little deeper than your magnet will be. You want to make the well a little deeper so there is room to spread the glue without raising the magnet above the surface of the table. so that it cannot be moved when it dries.

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The last step was to apply polyurethane to the entire table. Or you can leave yours plain, paint it, color it…whatever you like. I applied several coats of semi-gloss clear polyurethane (Minwax), sanding lightly between coats. Before the last coat, I scrubbed the surface of the table well with steel wool to make it really smooth.

How To Build A Paper Table

The handles are simple drawer pulls with washers attached to the bottom. We attached two eye screws to the inside of the table apron, aligned them with magnets, and then attached the buttons to the screws using a length of bright orange ribbon. Now the buttons can be removed but are still attached

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