How To Add Outlet From Light Switch

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How To Add Outlet From Light Switch

My situation is that I have a tank that is currently filling the bedroom light, which is the end of the series on the circuit. I would have to fish the wire very far from the light switch and that would not be ideal.

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Option 1: Would a pigtail be suitable as follows? Imagine that the last outlet is a light switch.

Option 2: The power to the outlet in the diagram passes through the unfinished basement space. I can make a junction box and connect there.

Option 3: I can’t remember what they’re called, but I could use a new container that has the ability to feed multiple containers using a push rod or something. I’m not talking about the horrible stings. I will replace the first container with this new one.

Based on the OP’s comment about replacing the box with a larger size to ensure there is enough room for the wire:

Electrical Switches & Outlets

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In my garage I have a socket on the ceiling that opens the garage door. There are black and white wires going to the outlet and no ground that I can see.

I ran a line along the ceiling to the desk where I wanted to mount some bench level outlets and some switch controlled ceiling lights. I know I have to use a GFCI for at least the outlet. I have two questions about how to run the cables:

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Power comes from the lower left. In this option, everything is on the load side of the GFCI and the outlets are wired in parallel.

It’s much easier. This should prevent the lights from dimming if the GFCI trips, right? Are there any drawbacks?

Your first figure is almost correct. Sockets must be connected in parallel, as well as lamps. Lights can be GFCI protected, but probably don’t need to be (unless they’re under a shower in your garage).

You also need a neutral switch on the switch, even if you don’t use it. So it might look more like this.

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You must GFCI-protect grounded (3-wire) appliances installed on ungrounded (2-wire) circuits. See Exception 410.44 #3:

Exception #3: If the outlet does not have an appliance grounding conductor, GFCI-protected replacement appliances are not required to be connected to the appliance grounding conductor.

I am not an electrician. You must use a licensed electrician. Your local municipality may require a permit. Mains voltages can kill you.

That said, I think I know what I’m doing, but use this advice at your own risk. I recommend not wiring lights after a GFCI unless the bulbs are exposed to the outdoors and possible weather. This is what you describe in your second diagram, but there are a few problems:

Switched Outlet Wiring Diagrams

Since I don’t like to draw pictures, I will explain in terms of electrical networks. IOW, each device listed by network name (and wire color) should have a connection for each network below.

If your bulbs are outdoors and you want to protect them from ground faults, the wire to the junction box (both line and neutral) should come from the load side of the GFCI, not directly from the panel (or the GFCI). side of the line). You can unplug it from the GFCI box or whatever outlet is closest to your junction box.

Your area may have other code requirements that your local electrician can assist you with. Use e.g. 12AWG for 20A switches, or 14AWG for 15A, and attach to the rule near the box where the Romex wires meet. Leave about 10-12″ of wire hanging and strip the ends according to the instructions on the wire nut package or Quickwire’s hole guide. Use a wire nut rated for the number and thickness of each wire to be attached. Don’t burn the house down. 🙂

Mine is like the first picture..on 3 wires..I can’t share the neutral side of the load coming back from the line line because of my situation..the source is at the end of the room and the GCFI is on the outside wall across from my room to the garage dividing the two rooms..the thing is There is.. a room unfinished.. everything is covered but its bare bones I can see the attic next to the room. And if I wanted to work I could easily see the cables and the back of the outlet box on only one side of the room…there were no lights or gcfi outlets in this room just a standard weatherproof outlet that wasn’t plugged in from the source a barebones utility shed end of hall ..I have one outlet that I can work on and add more outlets to that room and complete the circuit for the external GCFI socket..so I use a mix of 12/2 and 12/3 in my setup..I like the diagram..I Can make my own version here

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I am in the process of replacing the double light switch with a smaller switch and socket. I have the power switch on and it’s working fine, but I’m worried about the next step. As I understand it, I have to:

The black thread is a little weird in my opinion. There is one connected to both “hot” on the light switch. Ditto the old one added.

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Did I miss something? Also, what is the easiest and correct way to connect these two extra cables? I don’t want to do anything but a 100 foot coil in just a few inches.

All bare safety ground wires in your box should be connected. It is not enough to take a ground from one romex and connect it to the switch and from another romex pack to the outlet. It is best to attach them to the back of the box with a good quality wire nut and have a bend coming out of each unit.

The current method of connecting the white wires would be to use a short piece of white insulated wire stripped at each end (pig tail). One end will connect to the existing white wires with wire nuts and the other end to your socket.

For the black wire, remove one end from the switch. Then connect the two lengths of black wire with wire nuts and push them to the back of the box. One pigtail goes to the switch and the other to your outlet.

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To get stray pieces of wire for pigtails, you can either cut the excess Romex cable and strip the individual wires from there, or you can visit a good hardware store where they often sell individual wires by the foot.

This will place the socket on the same circuit but independent of the switch. The switch does not turn the outlet on and off.

Basically, wherever you go, black is hot, white is neutral and nude/green is toned (at least for AC).

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This article describes how to wire a simple on/off switch for an electric light, how to wire a 3-way switch to control lights from two locations, and how to wire a 4-way switch to control lights (or other devices) or more.

Our photo at the top of the page shows the wire terminals of a simple on/off switch used to control devices from a single location.

We also provide index of articles for this topic or you can try

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