How To Wire A Fan Light Combo Switch

How To Wire A Fan Light Combo Switch – I am having a problem with the wiring for my Newton ceiling heater/light/heater. It is housed in a condo that was built in the mid-1960s. All instructions for the fan and 3-way switch assume that there is a hot wire in the switch box in the wall. In this case, there is one hot wire in the ceiling and two more wires in the wall box. I added a picture. Can someone check and advise how to connect the heater unit? Every recipe I tried didn’t work. thanks in advance!

I don’t know about triple switching, but search in the “switch circuit” grid to find a hot changer. There pictures will be better than what I can explain.

How To Wire A Fan Light Combo Switch

Connect the neutral supply to the neutral on the fan assembly. Connect the power supply conductor, use the white wire and mark the black.

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On the switch: Connect the indicated wire to the normal switch. Connect the other 3 wires to the 3 switch terminals. Mark the white with black.

This is not code dependent on the neutral requirement in the switch, but it will work with the 4 conductors you have.

Perhaps you forgot the most important thing: these units must be in a separate 20A circuit. This means you cannot use existing threads. You need to run a new 12-2 feed from the panel to the switch area, then two 12-2 wires to the unit. Choose one of the whites as blue so you don’t mix them up with the two sides.

BluegrassGuy said: You probably forgot the most important point: these units must be on a separate 20A circuit. This means you cannot use existing threads. You need to run a new 12-2 feed from the panel to the switch area, then two 12-2 wires to the unit. Choose one of the whites as blue so you don’t mix them up with the two sides. Click to expand… How did you notice it didn’t have a 20am chart?

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Based on the written method, I assumed it refers to existing threads. Although it is 20A, such a device probably does not require a special circuit.

The current cable allows you to control 3 functions – heat and air. The light is unusual. It is possible to replace the existing HVL with a new model. If it is an outlet/injection, the 3 wire cable will run to the switch instead of the 2 12/2.

Thanks for the replies and sorry for the late reply. I have not received any notification that there is any activity on this topic.

Restoration – This project is to replace an old fan/light/heater combo. There was a special circuit for this device. As per the instructions, I used the switch loop to lower the flame to the switch and everything works fine. Thanks for your help.

Portion Of Combo Light Lighthead Wiring Diagram (12v)

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The first 3-way transfer box has one (soft/power) 14-2 wire and two IC 14-3 wires with ground.

14-2 (soft/power) black wire 1st and 2nd black wire goes to 14-3 and then to the black screw under the first 3 way switch.

Changing Out Really Old Double Light Switch

First 14-3 way (from black/white line/power 14-2 line) to ceiling junction box/light connector, where black to black, white to white, red to red extra wire 14- 3 is Then the red color for the fan/light is matched with the black, black, white, red and blue wires. An additional 14-3 cable from the ceiling heater continues to light two isolated lights.

Back to the light switch, the first 14-3 black wire is on the second 14-3 cable, the first 3 way switch (passenger) is on the copper screw and the white wire is one.

This second 14-3 cable goes to the second 3-way transfer box (there is only one 14-3 cable) and there is a black screw on the bottom, a screw on the right with a red wire and a white one. Left side brass travel screw.

This second 3-way switch can turn off the heater/fire and turn on the light as needed, working in conjunction with the first 3-way switch. Only the first switch will turn the heater/light on and off at the same time.

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So three wires to the heater and back to the switch, then to the second switch and three wires back. The question would be, were the black threads painted that way in the first place? And why doesn’t the second 14-3 string connect to anything?

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By clicking the “Accept All Cookies” button, you agree that Stack Exchange may store cookies on your device and disclose information in accordance with our Cookie Policy. Dear Electrician: How can I add a bathroom heater to my existing light switch to control my bathroom fan separately?

Answer: Depending on how your home is wired, adding a bathroom heater switch may be as simple as changing some contacts in an existing light fixture. Then you can install a combination device with two column switches in one wire. Note: Some links in the text below are to used products on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn on qualified purchases.

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I’ve had this request several times, and in some cases I just needed to open an existing wall and make some changes. I would remove the wall plate, unscrew the screws that held the switch in place, and remove it from the wall to access the wiring. Sometimes the paint is the hardest part to remove from the wall plate screws.

If there is an internal cable that goes to the bathroom light and a separate cable that goes to the heater, it is possible to add a second switch without laying additional wires. Check out the bathroom fan wiring diagram.

The main wiring will consist of one cable that supplies power to the switch box, as well as two cables that go to the heater and lights. There may be other cables that supply power to other parts of the house. They will only be bound by fire and neutrality.

All white neutral wires will be connected using a wire nut or other type of wire connector. The black wires that go to the fan and light will be connected to the black wire that is connected to a single wall switch.

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The black wire from the power cable is connected to the other terminal on the switch. When the switch is turned on, power goes to the heater and the light at the same time.

Inside the wall switch electrical box I will separate the black wire that goes to the bathroom fan from the black wire that goes to the light. Then a combination key like below is installed to replace the old single column key.

In the case of the above alternative, the hot wire in the switch box will be connected to one of the black screw terminals. Then the black wire to the heater goes under the copper screw. The other black wire for the bulb goes under the other copper screw. The ground wire goes under the green patch.

You can see the wire terminals in the picture below. The two screws on the left are hot contacts exposed due to the gap between them. By breaking this little tab, there may be two separate circuits powering this device.

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A rear view of a two-pole switch combination switch shows the connection terminals

Due to the installer’s original connection method, it is not always possible to quickly change the wiring. In this case, another option would be to run a new separate cable to run two separate cables to the heater or light.

The work shown below is where I replaced the entire shower heater assembly and also installed a separate wall mount for the heater. Next to the old bathroom heater was a wire from the ceiling light.

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