How To Make A Wooden Recliner Chair – A few years ago I built an Adirondack chair for our second anniversary blog. This summer, I took another look at the original design, took some key elements and turned it into a completely different design: a chaise longue. I’ve been thinking about sun lounger design for the last year but everything I’ve found online has been either very complicated or simple but uncomfortable. What amazes me about the design of Adirondack chairs is how small curves and small angles affect comfort so much. I decided to weave these design elements into a lounge chair so that you can soak up as much vitamin D as possible this summer.
My favorites are the ones I can’t find online. I love bringing something new and original to a table (or chair) and this project strikes the perfect balance between making a lounge chair out of plain planks and creating a backyard piece of art. All curved parts are cut with a jigsaw, but this design is incredibly flexible – so don’t worry if you’re not familiar with this tool. Because there aren’t many seams facing each other, this chair requires less precision than, say, the cake box we made.
How To Make A Wooden Recliner Chair
I built this chair out of heavily gnarled cedar. You can use white wood if you’re looking for a cheaper option, but keep in mind that cedar naturally rots and warps and is lightweight, making it easy to move around the yard. Choose the wood that suits you and let’s get started!
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The first step is to cut all the wood lengthwise. I did this with a circular saw and a square to make sure the cuts were even. You can also use chopsticks. Make cutouts as follows:
Print out this sidebar diagram and then cut it out. We will use it to cut two 1-by-10 85-inch sections that will form the Adirondack curves for the base of the chair. These boards have one smooth side and one rough side, so make sure you cut the mirrored side panels so that the two smooth sides are facing out.
Start with one 85″ board and measure 37 1/2″ from the end that will be the head of the chair. Place the circuit directly behind this mark so that the vertical side is aligned with the bottom edge of the board. The distance from the chart to the other end of the board (footboard) should be 23 inches.
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Trace the top edge of the chart on the stick with a pencil. Then, using a ruler, draw a square line from the top corner of the chart to the top corner of the board 3/4″ from the end of the headstock. At the other end of the board, measure 3 1/2″ from the bottom edge and mark. Draw a straight line from this mark to the top corner of the chart.
Clamp the board in sections and cut along the marks with a jigsaw. Cut off the end of the board along a perpendicular line so that it changes direction. Then cut from the other end of the board until you get the original cut. I felt comfortable cutting all straight lines with a jigsaw, but you can also use a circular saw to get to the curved parts if you’re worried about not getting a straight cut with a jigsaw.
Print and cut out this chart to mark the curved tops of the back planks (37 1/2″ one-by-four boards). Arrange your boards one by four and decide what order you want to lay them out. I always like to intentionally arrange my tables in which order. -to a pattern so that any change in color looks like an artistic choice, not an accident.
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Start with two middle boards, placing diagram #1 at the top of the boards so that there is as little waste as possible. Mark a fold in the wood with a pencil, press the boards together and cut with a jigsaw. Repeat for parts #2 and #3 of the chart, matching the charts with the already cut boards until all the boards form one seamless loop.
For the two-by-two and two-by-four back straps, use the instructions below to take your measurements, then connect the dots with a diagonal loop. This is a much more precise cut (that’s why we’re giving it away for free), because these details will be hidden behind the slats – their only job is to create a curve on the back of the chair. Since we are shortening the length of these boards, it is safer to fix the board so that only a small part hangs over the work surface, and make cuts into small pieces.
Because there are so many moving parts on this project and I didn’t want to spend more time than necessary sanding, I focused on the areas you’ll have the most contact with while sitting in a chair: the tops and sides. rack chair and the outer part of the frame. The legs and various other components were lightly sanded with an abrasive sponge to remove large pieces from the cut.
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I usually started with 100 grit sandpaper and then moved on to 150 and 220 grit sandpaper. To save time, I only used 150 grit. The smooth side of the sander wasn’t rough enough to make a 100 grit necessary (at least not for me). ) and I didn’t think a chair was supposed to be smooth 220 grit. However, if you want to go one step further and sand all your cuts down to 220 grit, go for it! You have to choose the hill on which you will die in the sand, and it was not only that. I
To build the chair frame, place two panels one by ten side by side with the flat sides facing out. Fold 22 1/4″ two by four at the bottom and 22 1/4″ one by ten at the end. Place two by four equal lengths inside the one by ten head, and another two by four in the center, 16 3/4 inches from the inside of the one by ten head.
Fasten all pieces together by driving 1 1/2 inch screws through the side panels and all the way to the end of the boards. If you like, you can add wood glue for extra strength.
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Now we will add the planks that make up the seat of the chair. First, drill three holes at each end of each rod. I set the holes 3/4″ from the sides of the boards and 3/8″ from the ends. These measurements ensure that the bolts are even and centered on the board one to ten. I used a small, marked 1 x 4 piece of scrap as a guide to mark the location of the screws instead of measuring each board individually.
I always like to drill cedar with a counter drill when I drive the screws so close to the edge of the boards. Cedar is a very soft wood, so screw heads tend to corrode and split the wood around them. The countersink allows access to the heads, eliminating this problem. It is these little tricks that can make a project professional and good.
Once the rods are pre-drilled, lay them out and choose the order in which they will be installed. As with the one-by-four rear rails, if you have cedar planks of different colors, it is a good idea to lay them out in a row. pattern rather than putting them all together. This makes the color difference look like an artistic choice rather than a match.
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Once the slats are level, attach them to the chair frame with 1 1/2″ screws, keeping them 5/16″ apart. Start at the feet and work your way up. You can use shims to make sure the gaps are even, but I find them a bit pricey for this type of project so I opted for plastic shims. They are a little more difficult to use, but they serve the same purpose. I used a 1/4″ spacer and a 1/16″ spacer to create a 5/16″ spacer.
Cutouts are never perfect, so when I was about halfway through securing the moldings, I jumped to the other end (the part where the curved part of the sidebar ends) and started working backwards. If the distance is too short, you can adjust the boards as needed to make sure you hit the right spot and the planks look good.
Now it’s time to build the back of the chair. Lay one of the four flat sides down and curved ends in one line – the upper part of the back should look like a semicircle. Keep the straight ends of the planks touching, but unroll the top slightly, no more than 24 inches wide. Place a two-by-four back brace on the bottom of the batten and drive two screws through the frame and into each rung.
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Then lay a 22″ two-by-two back brace 7″ from the center of the top of the slats. Secure in place with two screws
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