How To Make A Make Do Chair – Introduction The Adirondack chair and matching love seat are designed for outdoor comfort. It is designed for easy assembly so that even a beginner can do it. And you can make it from a small tree, a long tree, when it is stained, it looks beautiful.
This combination chair and loveseat is perfect for relaxing outdoors. The seat reclines nicely to accommodate your body and has wide arms to fit the perfect snacks and drinks. And because the seat doesn’t recline like a traditional Adirondack chair, your grandpa can help himself without struggling.
How To Make A Make Do Chair
You don’t need any electronic equipment to make this item. All you need is a circular saw, a screwdriver and some simple hand tools. I also designed this project for simplicity: with a little patience, a beginner can do it well.
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The wood is pine, selected for its low cost, strength and durability. And don’t worry about the dull green appearance of treated wood. You can brush the outside with oil or rag, and give it a warm glow to make it look more like chalky or teak than the finished pine.
Most of the wooden outdoor furniture is made from expensive cedar or teak, but the best for this purpose are the boards that are always made from the house or wooden boards. . The task is to choose the right platform, without any possible nodes. Some tight knots are fine, and if you find a board that looks good but for big loose knots, trim it and use the empty section. It’s a good idea to buy some extra boards, in case you end up cutting more pieces than planned. Also avoid floors that are still wet during the drying process (they get cold and wet) and will crack or crack when dry.
Don’t assume that all manufactured boards are the same. When I brought my logs home, the boards were about 3/16 inch wide. These differences can complicate the assembly process, especially for rear screens, where the spacers need to be the correct rear width. When you get the boards home and start cutting the logs, use the cutting guide on your circular saw (or borrow a neighbor’s table saw) to cut them to size accuracy of the cut line.
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Attach the two front legs, measuring about 3/4 inch. deep groove and straight cut with your circle kit set to 3/4-in. depth of cut. Cut the pieces between the cuts and turn.
Spread a small amount of construction adhesive on each notch and line up the front stretcher (B) with the edge of the leg. Trimming and fixing extensions to the legs.
Mark the angle at the back of each arm and cut out the arm (C) and arm support (D) with your circular saw.
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Place the handrails on the top and front of the legs, and screw and fasten each round of the leg to the handrails with two 1-5/8-inch lengths.
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Insert the horizontal arm support (E) at a 90 degree angle to the front leg. Then tape, screw, and fasten the back leg to the armrests, so that the armrests are parallel to the floor.
Cut the seat support (G) from the 1×6 board. Align the square edge of the seat support with the back of the front stretcher (C) and attach it to the front and rear legs. Cut the notches in the front legs to get the front strings as shown in Figure 1. When the scrap wood is driven into the notches, carefully shave the bottom and finish with a rasp so that it doesn’t go too deep. notches too. When assembling the base frame (layers 2-6), ensure that the surface of the work is the same so that each part is connected to the next part at right angles. Be sure to use a small amount of construction adhesive in each joint and pre-drill and countersink holes for each screw. You can buy a part at your local hardware store that screws the pilot and sinker in one operation for screw #1. 6.
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To get the soft tape on the rear assembly, you need to tape the outer seat boards and cut them as shown in step 7. Mark a diagonal line at H3, then attach the board to the horse. saw and cut along the lines to create a pair of outer back panels.
Place the back bar on a flat surface with a 1/4 inch. wide spaces. Combine the next steps on the bar. Glue, screw and fasten to 1-1/4 inch surface of the deck.
First, draw a mark 1-1/2 inches from the edge to the other end as shown. Connect the marks to the line, then saw straight down the center of the line with your circular saw. Sand or smooth the cut edges to smooth the saw marks. Before adding the back of the chair or love seat, cut a 1/4 inch. thick splinter from broken wood. The spacers ensure that the rear assembly is the correct width. Place each board on the board making sure the good side of each board is facing down. Once you’ve attached the three support posts to the back bar, use a square frame to make sure it’s plumb. You will find it easier to get an accurate view if you match the center point of each clamp to the center line drawn under the center back bar. Drill the pilot holes and thread the 1-1/4 inch deck screws into the posts in the boards as shown in Figure A and Figure 8.
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Align the bottom of the rear assembly with the seat supports and the tops of the rear legs. Bring the legs to the back and attach the horizontal arms to the lumbar support. Once the back is assembled, it’s time to screw on the seat frame. Turn the frame assembly over and slide the rear assembly inside. This can be quite difficult, so make it easier by placing non-slip mats or rugs on the floor under the seat frame and the top of the rear unit. This will help keep everything together. And to align this assembly, it is very important to align the back of the seat support with the outer panels of the back (H3) and turn the back legs to the lumbar support (J) like Figure 9 and Figure A. Next, attach and fix the horizontal arm support (E) to the center back support (K) and then to the outside of the back bar.
Remove the seat panels (M), starting with the back in the same way. Drill a pilot hole in each end of the blade and attach it to the seat post. Attach the front seat bar to the seat support and front stretcher (B). After completing this phase, you will start to see the seats appear. Turn the chair over on its legs and cut out the front, screwing the seat boards. Attach and secure to the seat post with a 1-5/8-inch spacer. Don’t use too much force to turn – the head should rest on the seat bar.
Place the hands next to the armrests (E), and extend them over the ball of the foot 1-1/2 inches. Mark where the arm meets the back bar.
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Bend the arms with a hand seal and secure to the horizontal posts, the top edges of the rear legs, and the front and front legs with 1-5/8-inch studs and glue. .
The final step of assembly is to screw the armrests to the armrest and foot supports as shown in photos 11 and 12. The notch cut near the back of the armrests holds the back assembly to the position and eliminate pressure on the vibrations of the other joints. . This compound notch cuts through the wrist. Cut the depth with a handsaw and drill the notches.
Once the seat is in place, smooth all sides with 100-grit sandpaper, paying special attention to the seat and armrests. If the wood is damp or cold to the touch, you may need to dry the chair in the shade for a few days before sanding or staining.
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We use a cedar dye based on olive oil, which shows the grain. There are many options available, including special semi-transparent stains that your paint dealer can mix for you. A pint can easily be made into a pair of chairs, a love seat or a chair. This solution will last for at least a few years and can be cleaned and renewed as it shows signs of wear.
You don’t need to assemble an expensive adirondack chair to create a finished chair back design. Create a rounded back by measuring 15 inches from the top and drawing 14 inches. built-in beam and compass. You can build on our walk back
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