How To Connect Double Socket – C-line products are part of a modular system designed specifically for motor homes and caravans, and some of them include 12V and 240V sockets including USB, 3-pin sockets, light switches and more.
This article shows how to connect one or more 3-pin 240V sockets to use the main connection system or a large inverter.
How To Connect Double Socket
If you have a double 240V outlet or more than one 240V outlet in this range, you must connect them radially as in the diagram on the lower right.
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Each socket is equipped with a separate round end box that must be used for safety reasons and in accordance with current regulations. The round back box comes standard with a cable cutout and 2 additional quench points that can be cut to accommodate a radial cable running to the next outlet.
Start by plugging the 3-wire Arctic Flex into the desired outlet. Make sure you cut a 55mm hole to fit the back box on the surface you choose, this should be something solid and a fixed part of the van.
Then pull the wire, if you connect the outlet, separately, without the outlet in this loop, you can remove the outer insulation by 6 cm, be careful not to damage the insulation of the main core. . Then strip the insulation from each individual conductor. Then remove the copper conductor wire and screw it to the terminal marked on the back of the socket. Make sure everyone is securely clamped and cannot be pulled out or out.
You can then replace the back box, screw the socket to the surface and fit the frame around to finish.
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If you connect a double outlet. Before removing the insulation, cut a flexible blue piece about 20 cm long, it will act as a loop, as in the diagram above. Make an extra hole in the back box in the first outlet where the cable will be connected. (There are holes for additional cables). The second socket on the right in the diagram above can be connected in the same way as the single socket described above. The left socket will have two wires corresponding to each live, neutral and ground terminal. It is recommended to strip a little and roll it together before screwing it into the terminal,
If you have an outlet in several parts of the van that must be connected to the same circuit, follow the same procedure for the double outlet, but with a longer piece of cable to go to the next double outlet. All outlets in the loop will have two wires on each screw terminal, except for the last outlet which will have one. Not sure the topic of this post makes sense, so let me explain. I replaced the 80 outlet in my house with a new one with a USB charger and 3 pins.
The old outlet has voltage, Neutral and ground as usual, and nothing else. The new one has it, but the instructions say that “between the box terminal is installed and the ground terminal of the auxiliary equipment, if installed, ground must be made.” The diagram shows the ground wire that goes from the outlet to the “functional ground”.
This grounding is not done with the outlet there, but I guess 30 years have changed it! Should I connect the ground to the metal substrate box or do something else?
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It is recommended to run an additional ground wire from the ground contact on the outlet to the terminal on the metal back box.
But if the metal back box has one or more FIXED lugs that screws the front plate into, then this extra earth wire is not necessary.
This is a term that means ground is needed for the device to work; probably USB, not Jack.
Because of the USB connector, I suspect that the “functional ground” can refer to a stable 0V reference voltage source, instead of the protective ground usually required in electronics. I’m not sure if you actually have it as a separate cable, but the common ground in the household loop should not be too far.
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The terminal with a full circle around the ground symbol is for the protective conductor of the CPC circuit, which is the ground conductor that “protects” the cable by providing ground for the return of the ground fault current.
The semi-circular terminal is designed to provide a clean ground that protects the equipment connected to the outlet. Clean ground is not CPC and should not be connected. A clean ground uses a separate cable that connects to the local ground and is therefore immune to electrical interference in the CPC.
If a clean earth is not available or required, the two earth connections must be connected so that the BPK is connected to the Clean Earth terminal and the BPK earth terminal at the outlet.
Pure grounding is used for sensitive equipment and communication equipment where the body of the machine / frame must have the correct earth potential to avoid potential differences along the communication cable connecting the frame of one system to another system in a remote location.
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Yes, that’s the point. Although this is not standard issue on the inner ring road. I think there was a bit of buzz about this pure ground terminal when back (ten or two?) when home computers and the like became common, but now it is no longer a problem? Large switched-mode power supplies, such as those found in desktop computers, not only create ground noise, but also increase direct voltage and current. Can’t imagine turning off a stupid USB power socket in an average dirty country – otherwise, it’s hardly appropriate. I can tell you for free, without statistical confidence, that this is possible in the electronics of rich homes without a separate clean / weak function.
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The instructions also state: “This socket is fitted with two connected terminals to provide a double earth connection. This is for ‘pure earthed’ installations where additional earthing capacity is required to comply with IEE Wiring Regulations 607 BS7671.
Don’t worry. You almost certainly do not have such a “double grounded object”. In this case, you plug in like a regular outlet. The two earth terminals are connected together and you can use one or maybe both if it is more convenient.
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There is no requirement to connect to the rear box if you have fixed lugs, but the socket manual says you should do it to make it better.
P.s. I think provision 607 is obsolete. Check out rule 543.7, if you want to sleep, read:
I am trying to follow this thread with the same goal of replacing the old outlet with a new one. I will try to upload both pictures. The existing outlet must be installed first. The other is supposed to refer to the corresponding socket with a confusing (to me) reference to “functional grounding”. The new outlet has two similar reasons. The power supply has two power cables (input and output?) with a pair connected. I write with understanding:
1. The earth connection of the power cable can be connected to one of the two earth connections on the new outlet and
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2. An additional cable must be installed that goes from the ground used at the end of the outlet to another to connect.
Simply insert two grounds (CPC) into one of the terminals. The work is done. There is no need to connect, they are mechanically connected, and since you have a plastic box, there is nothing connected to the ground there as well.
The two earth connections in the socket are properly connected and both are marked with the earth symbol in a full circle. This means that both terminals are protective earth and not functional earth. So, as Ighofer said, two BPKs can enter one of the underground terminals.
The instructions and embossing “FOR IT EQUIPMENT” do not apply to this outlet. IT ONLY outlet uses a non-CPC ground function to ground the IT equipment connected to the outlet. BPK only connects metal front plate and/or metal back box. Functional ground is a low-resistance ground that provides IT equipment with a clean ground and is free from electrical interference (interference) from other equipment.
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