How To Build Outdoor Lounge Chair – One House editor and DIY expert Jenn Largesse shows you how to make a weatherproof deck chair from plywood deck boards.
My husband and I recently realized our dream of putting in a swimming pool surrounded by a composite deck. And since we finally had a lot of time to decorate, I saw an opportunity to use it by building chairs for the living room.
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The design I came up with has a folding back, angled legs for a modern look, and a long slatted seat so we can put our feet up while the kids watch. Composites make the seats very heavy, but with corrosion-resistant fasteners and polyurethane glue holding the parts together, I’m happy to report that the seats are durable and nearly maintenance-free. For them to rest comfortably, you only need long pillows to cover the seat and the back.
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Our deckchairs by the pool provide ideal seating for our children’s cannonball competitions. Here’s how to make your own set
Note: The instructions in this guide do not include actual measurements, so it’s important to find cushions, sizes, and frame designs that work with them. For this design, Jenn bought sofa bed cushions and built a frame to match them.
Composite decking also holds up well outdoors, but it has different properties than wood. Here’s what you need to know when working with it:
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TIP: There are several kits available for drilling and plugging screw holes in the joint, but I found it easiest to drill the pilot holes ¼ inch small before going through the plugs.
Following the cutting list above, cut the trim to size with a table saw and then with a miter saw. Apply polyurethane glue to the unfinished surface of the short joint and to one of the long legs. Adjust their lower edges and hold them until the glue hardens. Drill four pilot holes from the long leg to the short leg; reduce the counter hole by 1/4 inch, then secure with 15/8 inch screws. Cover each hole with a plug. Do the same with the remaining legs.
Place the shoulders of the front legs against the underside of the frame sides, 91/8 inches from the front of the frame. Glue, secure and secure with 15/8 inch screws. Brake seat support bars on both legs, grooved side down. Using the same screws, glue, attach and join the rails to the sides and ends of the frames, 1 inch below the top edges.
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So that the back rests on the hind legs, lower the shoulders with the weight of the back. Then fasten and turn both legs 11 centimeters from the end of the frame.
Position the backrest supports 1 inch from the installed seat rails. Drill a 3/8 inch hole 1 inch from the end of the back.
Place the sides and ends of the chair frame on their flat edges, perpendicular to each other. Drill two guide holes in each board at the bottom and sides. Attach the pieces with glue and 3-inch screws; to hide the screws with plugs. Glue and screw the pieces of support rail to the inside of each frame end.
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Drive the carriage bolt from each frame piece into the backrest support arm. Adjust the screw head for connection. Add washers, then use a wrench to tighten the locknut on each screw.
Align the first slats to the front of the frame, then glue and turn the other six slats to the fixed rails. Secure the ends of the slats with glue and two screws, leaving a 1 inch gap between them. Assemble the U-frame on the back. Put it on the back leg, then connect and turn the remaining slats in the frame.
Close the two 5-inch-wide boards to make an L-shaped shelf to raise the backrest; attach the shelf between the rear legs. Make a U-arm using glue, 3-inch screws and a set of three lengths; tie it to the frame. Now screw the dowel blocks into the frame to support the backrest when lying flat.
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Get the latest home improvement news, trusted tips, tricks and DIY smarts projects from our experts – straight to your inbox. A few years ago I built an Adirondack chair for the blog in honor of our two year anniversary. This summer I went back to the original design, took some key elements and turned to a completely different project: the reliner. I thought about designing an armchair last year, but everything I found online was either sophisticated or straightforward but uncomfortable. What amazes me about Adirondack chair design is how small curves and small angles make a difference in comfort. I decided to distribute these samples on the lounger so that you can absorb as much vitamin D as possible this summer.
My favorites are the ones I can’t find online. I love bringing something new and different to the table (or chair) and this project strikes the perfect balance between building a bench out of planks and creating a piece of art in the backyard. All curved parts are cut with a jigsaw, but this project has a surprising amount of flexibility – so don’t worry if you’re not familiar with the tool. Because there are not many seams connected, this chair requires less precision than e.g. the gate box we made.
I built this chair from solid cedar. You can use white wood if you’re looking for a cheaper option, but remember that cedar is naturally rot-resistant—and insect-resistant—and lightweight, which makes it easy to move around the yard. Choose the tree that suits you and let’s get started!
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The first step is to cut the length of the entire tree. I did this with a circular saw and a speed square to make sure the cuts were straight. You can also use a hacksaw. Make the cuts as follows:
Print this pattern on the side panels and cut out. We will cut two 85″ lengths of one-tenth with it, which will create an Adirondack curve at the end of the chair. These boards have a smooth side and a rough side, so be sure to mirror the side panels with both smooth sides.
Start with an 85-inch board that measures 37 1/2 inches from the end that will be the head of the seat. Place the drawing directly behind the mark, with its horizontal side parallel to the bottom line of the board. The distance between the drawing and the other side of the board (footing) should be 23″.
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Trace the end of the drawing onto the wood with a pencil. Then, with a straight line, draw an angle line from the top corner of the drawing to the top corner of the board, 3/4 “from the head. At the other end of the board, measure 3 1/2” from the bottom edge and mark. Draw a straight line from this mark to the upper corner of the drawing.
Cut the board into sections and cut out the points with a jigsaw. Cut the head of the board diagonally until it changes direction. Then cut from the other side of the board until you find the first cut. I felt good cutting everything straight with the jigsaw, but you can also use a circular saw to get into the curved areas if you’re worried about not being able to cut straight with the jigsaw.
Print and cut out this diagram to mark the curved surfaces of the back slats (37 1/2″ boards of four each). Place your squares one at a time and decide what order you want them in. I always like to be objective and laying out my boards in some sort of pattern so that any color change looks like an artistic choice rather than coincidence.
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Starting with the two middle boards, align drawing #1 to the top of the boards for less waste. Trace the curve in the wood with a pencil, hold the boards down and cut out with a jigsaw. Repeat chart steps 2 and 3, and align the charts to the pre-cut panels so that all panels form a single fluid curve.
For two tubes and a 2-4-4 rear bracket, use the guide below to measure and then connect the points with the bevel curve. This is a very small cut (that’s why we offer it for free) because these pieces are hidden behind the slats – their job is to create an arch for the back of the chair. Since these boards are cut lengthwise, you can securely fasten the board with the small part hanging over the work surface and make the cuts in smaller sections.
Because there are many
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