How To Make Chairs Out Of Popsicle Sticks – This chair never fails to make kids and parents alike. This is a deck chair that looks like it’s made out of Popsicle sticks. This is an easy project for beginners to experienced woodworkers. If you are in the business of making and selling such things, I bet you could sell one to a children’s photography studio. It will be perfect for taking vacation photos.
For this you need three pieces of light colored wood 3/4 inch thick, 3-1/2″ wide and 40″ long. If you want to be original you should use bass wood. I used Aspen, because it’s cheap and so am I. At the end of each stick, use a compass to draw a half circle, and cut it with your scroll saw, band saw, or whatever method works for you. When sanding all surfaces of each piece of wood with 120 grit sand paper. There are three big sticks.
How To Make Chairs Out Of Popsicle Sticks
What makes them popsicle sticks is their color. They were painted with Kool-Aid. This is my favorite color for kids projects. It is cheap, safe and fragrant. (If left unfinished, Kool-Aid will smell.) The paint container is a 4-inch piece of water supply pipe with a cap on one end. The paint is made by mixing eight cans of Kool-Aid with 5 liters of water. Grapes, cherries and oranges were used in the chair. Make a 22-inch mark on the wood and place it in the paint. Note that it is set to a slightly higher mark than the color level. Because the paint adds some length to the wood. Leave the wood in the paint for 24 hours and then let it dry for a few days before continuing.
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No matter how hard you try to control how far the paint stretches each stick, it will go where you want it to stop and look ugly. Fortunately, the color is not deep and can be sanded with a little determination. After the 22 inch mark use 120 grit sandpaper and sand any color. You now have three large popsicle sticks.
Each piece of wood is used to make the body of the chair and the back of the chair. Cut each piece of wood into two strips 22 inches long. This is a piece of chair. The remaining monochromatic piece is less than 18 inches. This is the piece behind the chair. Take the two seat pieces back and cut an extra inch. Check each piece to determine the best direction for the front of the seat and the back of the seat.
Half cross formations are easy joints to mark and cut. It is used when it is necessary to connect two pieces of wood that overlap each other. An image is included in the attached PDF to help visualize the construction.
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There are many ways to cut double-sided joints and all can be found on the Internet. I cut it with a hand tool.
Up the chair. Mark a line 9 inches from the edge. Use a square to mark a line slightly down the middle of the tongue.
This joint is not square, but has a deviation of 7 degrees. This makes the chair very comfortable to sit on. To mark this joint, you need to draw a line with a distance of 7 degrees from the square. (This is clear in the PDF.) To do this I used a 1:8 magnetic dovetail designed and built by David Baron. (1:8 ratio is 7.1 degrees).
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This guide was actually for cutting dovetails by hand, but it works in this application as well. He has all kinds of clever gadgets. Remove them!
To get the right width for cutting, take a piece and line it up so the back of the chair is high. (PDF again.) Mark this width. With these bevels, draw both top and bottom cut lines. Also mark the depth of the cut, which is a little less than half. You are ready to cut this joint.
Place the guide in line and let the magnet control the cut. Make sure you cut the waste side of the line. This guide is not designed for deep cutting, so when it no longer serves as a guide, remove it and cut the rest by eye. The finished kit serves as a guide. After completing both cuts, use a chain saw to remove the debris. Try to enter the section. It should be tight but not too tight to fit. The joint can be opened with sandpaper, a chainsaw and a file.
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Follow steps 5 through 8 to cut the seat back. The only difference is that for step 5 you measure 4 inches from the back of the chair.
This is where the rubber meets the road. The two parts of the joint are cut in half and ready for assembly. This is a dry state, so do not use pills at this time. Joints may need some sanding or polishing.
Repeat steps 5 to 10 for the other two sticks. Now you have three pieces of chairs. Note that the outer pieces are an inch shorter than the center pieces. I think it’s a nice little design touch. Also remember to match the color of the chair and the back of the chair. I did this on purpose, but you can mix it up if you want.
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You now have three really thin seats. You need some rails to connect them together. There are six connecting rails. Three ¾ inches measure by 1½ by 11 inches. (1 x 2 dimensions). The other three are ¾ x 2 ½ inches x 11 inches (1 x 3) with one edge beveled at 7 degrees. Or set your saw to cut an angle and use a flat.
They have 32.5″ diameter holes called fixed posts in the PDF. These holes serve two purposes. They make it easier to lower the rail and make it easier to place the screws evenly. It’s neat and tidy. keep
First, you need to separate the parts of the seat, glue and reassemble. (You can leave this for any pieces that are glued together and you don’t want them to come apart.) You now have three chairs.
Popsicle Stick Crafts
The location of Rail No. 1 is marked for the diagram in the attached PDF. Take three thin sets and leave two 1/2 inch gaps between them. Place the rail on the drying area and mark it lightly with a pencil. Remove the adhesive tape. Then replace the rails and screws. 1-1/4″ screws. Here are the ones I like.
These screws are not designed to split wood. They have a torx head which makes them easy to install with an electric screwdriver.
Place the rail number 2 in the correct position. Be sure to use spacers to hold the parts in place. Note that a clamp must be used to secure the piece. Mark the position of the rail and then chip and screw.
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#4 Rail 2-1/4 inches down from the top of the two smaller pieces. Make sure the spacers are in place, then mark the rail, glue and screw.
#5 rail 3 inches back from end of rear post. This ensures that it does not fall to the ground during use. Make sure the spacers are in place, then mark the position of the rail, thumb and screw.
Place the #6 rail 3/4″ from the front of the seat back. Make sure the spacers are in place, then mark, glue and screw the rail.
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The seats are made. I like to leave them unfinished because they smell so good. If I want to finish it I will use shellac spray and satin lacquer spray (daft). The little girl in the picture is for reference and her height is 38 inches. I am what his little finger is wrapped around.
I slightly bevel or round the front edge of the seat top. It can be too sharp for some and dig into the back of the leg.
The seat acts like a rocker when you get out of it. Some find it fascinating and others find it boring. To prevent the seat from moving this way, drill a 3/4″ hole in the middle of the front rail and insert a 6-1/4″ long one. Keep the shield
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