How To Make Computer Table Diy

How To Make Computer Table Diy – The surface created by the door has plenty of space for my computer, monitor, speakers and other essentials. Whitson Gordon

After spending hours putting together a killer workstation, you have a tricked-out desktop, multiple monitors, speakers, and… a computer desk too small to fit it all. Here’s how to build your own ergonomic, adjustable computer desk that displays all your technology, looks great — and won’t break the bank.

How To Make Computer Table Diy

There are many ways to create a table. But for this particular project, I had four criteria to fit my custom computer desk.

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After a lot of research, I decided to build my desk out of a door plate and some adjustable table legs from Ikea. It hits all four targets out of the park, and as a bonus, you should be able to find the pieces pretty easily no matter where you are. This is what I use.

For a large piece of furniture like this, you need a wide work table. And there are several slabs you can try.

Ikea KARLBY desks have become very popular due to their large size and relatively affordable price—costing between $100 and $200 depending on size and color. You can use it with this guide, I want it to be cheap. So I got a big door for my desk.

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Doors have a very reasonable price point, with new ones selling for $50 to $100. If you scour Craigslist, you might be able to find some cheap, or if you’re really lucky, pick some up for free. A door won’t be polished around the edges like a KARLBY, and may need extra work to stain or paint, but I prefer a more industrial look. Look for something that has a solid (not hollow) core and a width that matches your ideal desk depth—most doors are 24 to 36 inches wide. If you have a circular saw, you can always cut the larger slab to size, but this is not necessary for the patient buyer.

I chose doors that show the grain of the wood. Then I sanded, stained and finished it myself. If you end up using an old door, you may have to deal with the hole where the handle used to be, although you can always use it to organize the wires in the back. In my case, I hid the holes under my mouse pad and keyboard.

This is another part of the special sauce of the table. You’ll need four or five support legs in total, depending on whether you want to add a set of drawers to your workspace.

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While most people would recommend standard table legs or industrial tubes, I went with Ikea’s OLOV legs. At $15 each, they’re a bit more expensive than Ikea’s regular table legs, but they’re adjustable, meaning you can find the right height for you. It’s essential for good ergonomics, so it’s well worth the extra cost.

Again, search Craigslist to see if you can find a cheap leg. I bought a used table of five OLOVs from a neighbor. It cost a total of $30 – much less than the $75 for a new five-foot Ikea.

No workspace is complete without a place to store flash drives, sticky notes and more. I recommend meeting these requirements with a filing cabinet or drawer that fits your ideal desk height (for a guide to calculating that height, see the next section) so you can use it as a leg. Because depending on your own size, these elements will be highly personalized.

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I don’t want to sound like a broken record, but Craigslist is your friend here—though Wayfair will be too if you don’t have a thrift store in your area. I use a file cabinet I already have at home with one of these jury organizers mounted on the top drawer to keep all my stuff.

That’s the bones of our build, but you might want a few more things to tie it together. I highly recommend these two anti-sag braces, which are essential for large pieces of furniture that sag under their own weight.

I bought the door unfinished and stained it myself, so I also needed wood stain and semi-gloss polyurethane.

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Other items will help keep your gear organized. If your computer monitor isn’t height adjustable, you might want to prop it up on something like this super cheap DIY stand. To really tidy up your workspace, I also recommend some form of cable management, such as a rain channel or the Ikea SIGNUM tray. Don’t forget to add a mouse pad as well—this will protect the table from black marks and excessive wear.

Finally, you will need two tools: a drill and a screwdriver (or a drill bit for your drill). You’ll need to attach everything to the wood with screws, but you’ll need a drill to make the pilot holes and a drive bit will make it easier to join the pieces. If you don’t have one, borrow a drill from a neighbor.

1. Prepare the surface. I started by sanding, staining and finishing my doors myself. This process is not particularly difficult, but instructions are beyond the scope of this article. If you’ve never done this before, ask a friend for help, or check out this great YouTube guide by Steve Ramsey. It should only take a few hours of your time, and wait a few days for everything to dry between coats.

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Staining can be relaxing, but make sure you work in a well-ventilated area – the fumes can be overwhelming. Whitson Gordon

2. Planning ergonomics. While waiting for the door to dry, do a little ergonomic test. Take your desk chair and adjust the seat height and armrests to a comfortable position. Your feet should be flat on the ground, with your elbows and knees at about a 90-degree angle. When you’re in the right position, measure the distance from the floor to the top of the armrest, then subtract the thickness of your surface – usually about an inch and a half. The resulting measurement is the setting you want for your OLOV legs, as well as the ideal height for your file cabinet or drawer. Write it down, and buy boxes if you plan to keep them.

If you’re going to use your desk a lot, you’ll want it to be comfortable. Whitson Gordon

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3. Place your pieces. When your slab is ready, turn it over and plan your construction, starting with the feet. I recommend placing one foot on each of the four corners with a fifth in the middle of the back for support. If you plan to assemble that file, this will replace one of those front legs.

Next, take your anti-bag shelves and find a place for them near the center of the surface. If they bump into the area where you plan to put your filing cabinets, you may need to set them slightly off-center. If you have cable management, stick it in whatever space you have. I used an Ikea SIGNUM tray and attached a splash guard to the bottom I had to do some finishing to find a place for everything, so it’s best to plan all of this before you start digging the holes.

4. Start the assembly. Once you find a place for everything, mark and drill some pilot holes for the legs, anti-sag gaps, and whatever else you’re attaching to the bottom. This is important: if you just start screwing into the surface, you are likely to split the wood. Assemble everything with the leg clamps, except the legs. This will take some time and effort, so again, I recommend using your drill as a driver to get things done faster.

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We recommend using a drill, but it can be done with a screwdriver—it will take longer and give you more practice. Whitson Gordon

5. Add the legs. Now is a good time to take the last few steps out your door to the office—you’ll find it much easier to get around before setting foot. When it reaches its new home, screw the OLOV foot onto the bracket. You can then adjust it to your desired height by unscrewing the bottom cover, sliding it and turning it clockwise to secure it.

6. Check stability and level. Now, turn your desk over and tape a file to the bottom. Make sure everything is even. (If you don’t have a tier, your phone might have a basic tier.)

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While you are reviewing the stability of the table, also check the height with your chair. This may seem ridiculously low, but that’s because most desks are designed for writing, not computing. Computer desks are usually more for writing, with a keyboard tray at arm’s length. You can set your home desk higher and use a screw-down keyboard tray to raise it

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