How To Wire Sockets In A Garage – Outdoor electrical outlets should be installed at the front and back of a home to provide a safe place to plug in an extension cord. This discourages people from running extension cords through ports (from the inside out) and minimizes overly long extension cords. The basic rule is that an outlet should be installed where it is easily accessible from the ground and no more than 6 ½ feet above ground level. This applies to both the front and back of the house. Outdoor receptacles must have RCD protection, must be tamper resistant (TR) and must also be weather resistant (WR).
For many of us, there isn’t enough junk in our garages. Looks like we could always have a few more. However, the code is only a minimal set of installation rules.
How To Wire Sockets In A Garage
The rule of thumb for garage outlets is that an outlet should be installed in every space in the vehicle and no more than five feet above the floor. This rule applies to both semi-detached garages and insulated garages that are supplied with electricity (the individual garage does not have to be supplied with electricity, this is at the owner’s discretion). The idea of requiring an electrical outlet in every vehicle space is to ensure that there is an electrical outlet to charge electric vehicles that can be parked in the garage.
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John Williamson has been in the electrical industry for 40 years and is a qualified electrician and civil engineer. John has served the State of Minnesota for over 23 years and is Chief Electrical Inspector. Over the past 25 years, John has also provided electrical code advice to numerous book and magazine publishers.
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For these and other reasons, you should not base critical security work on content alone. Information and plans must be independently checked and verified before action is taken.
Anyone installing wiring should also understand some basic safety issues not discussed here. This article is an introductory overview rather than a full A to Z on rewiring and assumes some basic electrical knowledge.
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This article lists some legal requirements. They apply to new lines and in many cases are not requirements for existing lines.
Schematic shown with 6A light fuse and 32A MCB ring circuit. Other options are also possible:
Each fuse or MCB only powers one circuit. A circuit can feed from 1 to many loads.
Split load CUs have become popular in recent years and have been ubiquitous since 2008 with the introduction of the 17th edition line controllers. They typically offer significant advantages over the traditional non-partitioned CU type. See Consumer Units 17th Edition for more information.
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A CU split load splits the MCBs into 2 or more separate banks. Each bank usually has its own RCD. There must also be a main switch that turns on the entire CU.
Grounding is a basic safety system used in electrical installations. It works together with MCBs, fuses and RCDs to ensure that the power supply can be quickly disconnected in the event of a fault. This significantly reduces the risk of shocks.
Most homes have an earth connection from the electricity supplier. Those that don’t (usually country houses a few miles from the nearest town) use a local earth stake.
The supplier’s ground terminal or your own ground stake connects to the UC’s ground pad. Every electrical circuit in the house gets its ground connection from the UC grounding block.
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The 17th and later editions of the Wiring Regulations more frequently set requirements for installing RCDs (or RCBOs) than the previous 16th edition. In general, ALL cables buried less than 50mm below the surface of the wall AND NOT mechanically shielded, or terminated in one of several specialized cable types with an earthed shield, must have a 30mA RCD. This circuit protection can be derived from one RCD protecting multiple circuits or individual RCDs/RCBOs on each circuit.
New installations have two or more RCDs. Older people may have only one or none. (currently half of UK properties don’t have one, according to research)
RCDs reduce the risk of damage from electric shock (they don’t eliminate it completely), but they can also introduce reliability and problems of their own if not used correctly. Historically, RCDs have usually only been used in some circuits, not all.
With a supplier-supplied ground connection, the most common historical arrangement was a split CU with an RCD on one side and no RCD on the other. In general, the RCD side is used to provide power outlets and showers, with most other items on the non-RCD side.
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With a local earth stake the situation is different as all circuits must be RCDs as a local earth stake is generally not good enough to clear all earth faults. Therefore, RCD is used in all circuits, even in older installations. A common option is to run the power through a time-delayed 100 mA RCD with the output going to a split CU with RCD on one side. This is not an ideal arrangement, as a large ground fault on the non-GFCI side will cause a complete blackout and sometimes the inability to restore power.
An RCBO is a combination of RCD and MCB in one module and is installed instead of an MCB. RCDs allow individual circuits to be protected by their own RCD without the risk that a fault in an unrelated circuit will cause it to trip. But protecting all circuits in this way is more expensive.
When RCBOs are used, they are installed on the non-RCD side of the CU and provide circuits that need RCD protection. See Consumer Units 17th Edition for more information.
Neutral conductors for circuits protected by different RCDs (or of an RCD and non-RCD) must not be mixed. If a neutral wire is connected to the wrong side, the RCD will trip.
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The same principle applies to RCBOs, each RCBO circuit must have its neutral wire connected to the RCBO pin and not anywhere else.
Historically, installations using a supplier ground connection will run some circuits directly on the non-RCD side of a CU. Among which:
Modern installations often provide additional RCDs so that sensitive circuits (i.e. lighting) are not affected by a nuisance trip and so that types of circuits subject to high ground faults (i.e. things with heating and water elements nearby) are individually protected. from another.
The outputs can be connected to circular or radial circuits. Rings are more commonly used because they use less copper for most circuit layouts, have safety advantages over radial circuits (sometimes questioned), can deliver more power, and occupy more space per circuit.
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Outlets can be found on 32A ring circuits in most home installations. They use a cable ring (i.e. a loop), so on the CU, 2 cables are connected to the MCB instead of 1. An unlimited number of outlets can be connected to each ring.
One loop per floor is a fairly common setup, but it’s not the only option. Larger houses usually have more rings. It’s also common to have a ring dedicated solely to kitchen outlets, as that’s where you’ll find many of the most energy-hungry appliances in a modern home.
2.5 mm² cable is generally used for loop circuits. 4 mm² is used when the cable must be insulated or bundled with other cables.
Spurs are allowed, but if practical, retainers should be fitted in the ring instead of spurs. Spurring is best used only for later track additions.
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Spur sockets prevent easy addition of more sockets in certain positions later, as a rail need not be rail by rail. Spurs also prevent more sockets from being added to existing sockets, while a virtually unlimited number of sockets can be added where a socket sits on the ring. Keep in mind that the number of requested withdrawals has increased enormously over the years and can only continue to increase.
Radial socket circuits are less commonly used. They use a single cable from the CU to the outlet, then a single cable to the next outlet in line, etc. Radials use more copper in most circuits, but less cable in physically long, narrow circuits. Connection errors have greater consequences than with rings. (Confusion about the relative safety of annular and radial circuits is widespread.)
The minimum and desired number of recommended shots per environment is indicated. Recommended numbers are inevitably a matter of opinion and are recommended only as a starting point for consideration.
Radial
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