How To Build A Mid Century Modern Chair – You don’t need fancy, expensive materials to build this chair. Read on to find out how.
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How To Build A Mid Century Modern Chair
Building a chair can be intimidating because it has to look good and feel good. So I based my chair on a design tested in the 1960s – and a great one at that.
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Of course, you can build this Selig chair with a shop full of good power tools. But you can also solve it with the tools you already have or invest a little in new ones.
I ordered a cushion made by Joybird, the company that makes the reproduction of this chair. The size of her fabric determined some of the dimensions of my chair. You can buy your pillow and know it fits you.
I fell in love with traditional hand tools many years ago. I love bringing them back and working with them, so I used them a lot in this project. But you don’t have to be a craftsman to make this chair. Some common, modern tools help you make all the necessary settings and collaborations.
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To change the chair to a specific shape, start by mocking it up with notes. You will see all dimensions and dimensions. If you change measurements, you may need a separate pillow.
Once you get it right, create a complete design. I do this on white melamine. It’s easy to make changes by simply wiping away pencil marks and dirt.
Draw full size, then cut from 1/2 inch. medium density (MDF) with a jigsaw or band saw, stay out of line. Take care of your sand, take all the time you need to keep it looking good. Your router’s bit configuration will track them exactly.
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If you don’t have a router or router table, don’t worry. I’ll tell you about the other options as I go along.
Trace your designs onto your wood, then cut them out, keeping them no more than 1/8-inch apart. crossed the line. That leaves little to change, making step 3 very easy. If you are not going to use a router with a smaller model, you still need to make patterns. Draw them on your tree and cut them close with tape or a jigsaw.
Attach motifs to your cutouts with simple brad nails or finish nails. Use a small template in the router or router table and cut off the excess. Remove the pattern, attach it to the next cut piece and continue.
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If you are not using a router, set up your router instead. So use a belt, belt, spindle sander, or all of the above. For a closed radius, if you don’t have a spindle sander, you’ll need a round file or sandpaper around the dowel.
Check the fit where the front and rear legs meet and the joints of the rear legs. These joints end at the back of the wood, so they should be fine. If you need to make any adjustments, work on the parts with sandpaper, a disc sander, or an edge.
When you are happy with the fit, mark each joint where the plug should go. Place your gel driver on top of the shelf and line up the registration mark with the marks you made. Then dig your hole. I used two 3/8-in. dowel holes in each joint. Use Brad’s article for this.
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Dry fit the plug tip to make sure everything is in place. Make sure you use a dowel made from a joint, not a dowel easily found at a hardware store. The joint shoe is hardened, which allows the adhesive to escape from the socket opening when the joints are pressed together. A tight fit prevents adhesive from leaking and can prevent joints from sealing.
When you are satisfied with the fit, apply glue to the plug and joint surface, insert the plug and press together. Use pump hoses to install it throughout the house. Stop the clamps at the parts that prevent the pipes from sliding. Just take one point at a time so you’re never in a rush.
When the glue is dry, radius all edges with 3/8-in. take a walk around. If you don’t have a router, you can easily access it with a handheld device. A tube, belt, orbital belt, hand plane, speaker rack, or a combination of these tools are a good match. Avoid specific threads about this topic.
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Make a 5/32-in. x 1/2-in. groove in the center of each seat unit. The best way is to make two passes with 1/8-in. minor in light electronics and conductors. This way you can create a tree that is suspended from the sidebar. Otherwise, you can make those holes in the table that you found and fill the gaps later.
Use your gel driver and drill dowel holes in all parts of the seat. Test fit, then add glue and plug. When the glue dries, place the back panel at 75 degrees.
Cut the seat back to full length, stay out of the way. Then line them up and round the edges with 1/4-in. microcirculation, sand block or flat block.
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Cut back and front and stretch the front as shown in the picture. Round the bottom edge just to stretch the front, then round it to 75 degrees. After rounding the top of the back panel, make seven equal 1/4-in. dowel holes on one row of each back row, depending on thickness.
Use dowel centers and 1/4-in. space to identify the dowel holes in the spindles (Photo 11A) and drill a 1/4-in. dowel holes in spindle heads. You can install a vertical jig on your drill press or drill it free.
Pick up all the stitches in the bottom width and then add them to the top (Photo 11B). For complex compositions like this that have a lot of dots, I use duct tape because it has a longer open time.
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Place the folded side of your work and place the sleeve. Copy the corner from the back of the back to the end of the finger with a T-bevel. Cut the corners with a miter saw.
Handles are dimensioned from back to front as shown in the diagram. I used a band saw to cut this cone. If you don’t have one, you can cut the strip by hand or belt sand the floor. Do not place behind the back joint.
With your arms up, look for the inner support under your arms to make sure you stay away from that area. Now you can smooth the handles, go around the edges and call it good. Or you can “punch” the top, as I did (Photo 13A), and slowly push the bottom down (Photo 13B). Place the top with a sheet of sand on the rack.
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Dry fit the clipless seat using clamps and mark each part in place. Mark and drill a dowel hole at the location of the seat and extension.
With the bench broken, line up the drilled holes in the seat of the bench and locate the dowel and the center of the dowel. Remove the dowel hole in the seat post. Apply glue to the clips and joint surface and attach the back and seat to the side. Attach the plug to the other end of the seat and stretch it, then press the other side of the plug.
Also use masking tape to give yourself extra space. Use the clamps to press the tops of the entire case.
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The rear panel is a standard plug. Remove the back with the tube first, then install the arm with the center pin. Then, insert the dowel into the back hole, holding the arm in place, and follow the corner of the dowel to the end of the arm. It gives you a referral to drill that hole for free. I used a 3/8-in. plug it in at this time.
Attach it to the plug with the top and inner surfaces. Press together. Use packing tape to hold the front of the arm and let the glue dry.
Install and repair all transition areas. Use whatever you have: flap sander, belt sander, burrs, files and/or sandpaper.
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Once the mold passes the eye test, install the entire chair and apply the finish of your choice. I sanded it down to 800 grit and applied five coats of General Finishing Gel. It’s easy to apply and you don’t have to worry about drips or blisters. But it doesn’t build up quickly, so you have to use more coats than swatches.
Cut three pieces of mesh to go over the seat and three to go forward
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