How To Make A Bungee Cord Chair – I thought it would be nice to end the week with a few more photos from my appearance at ABC Carpet and Home in New York. My time in the shop has given me new things to recommend to customers, inspiration and even a DIY idea or two…
I loved these accent chairs! Made from bungee cords, they are perfect in the corner of the living room or dining room for that unexpected pop of color!
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I fell in love with this wooden pendant and especially with the beautiful pattern that appeared on the walls when it was lit.
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I’m totally crazy about inlaid furniture right now and the pieces above were amazing in person. I was particularly drawn to the gray chest of drawers – it was in my “hello”…
This patchwork sofa was covered with old carpets. It only confirmed my decision to cover this cane chair with a colorful rug from Uzbekistan.
I loved this series of clear resin pendant branch lights. These lamps placed on a colorful background are a real gem for the room.
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While not cool, I liked the idea of using two lights to pull down the sofa and light the task.
Art on the wall? This is a slim frame jacket in a shadow box. I felt it was complete and covered my chaotic time in New York this week! This project is very simple as it consists of two crossed wooden rectangles with a woven paracord seat and back.
I’m assuming that anyone doing this project has basic woodworking skills and is familiar with power tools, so this won’t be a woodworking class. :O)
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I will offer a flexible idea that can be changed rather than absolute plans… feel free to experiment and play… but don’t get stuck in a rigid vision of just one way of doing things. It exists. :O)
Saw the table saw and miter saw frame components first. The first picture shows me laying down in my chair. Change the measurements to your liking.
Important note: You want to use a hardwood that is on the harder end of the spectrum…such as oak, walnut, hickory, etc.
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On the table saw @ 1.5″ I tore two strips from which I cut two 41″ boards and two 16 7/8″ boards. From the scraps I cut two 7/8″ blocks with a 30 degree miter on one. end of each attached to one of the 16 7/8″ front seat boards (see photos two and three below). I then cut a 1 1/4″ strip from the remaining board on the table saw. From there I cut two 27″ pieces. I then ripped the remaining board 2″ wide and cut two 13 5/16″ pieces and a third 15 3/8″ piece on the miter saw. Ignore the short bits in the picture labeled “SSB”.
Next you want to attach the back of the front seat. Take the 16 7/8″ back rest and two miter blocks and glue and glue them together to look like the front seat back shown in pictures two and three below. 1/2″ wide in the middle so the chair hangs when you sit in the chair.
Optional: I used a 3/8″ round nose tip to put an indentation on the outer edges of the long boards where the paracord fits and protects from fraying…and I think the “finished” look is great. Terry has it. , but it is not necessary.
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Optional: You can round the ends of your long boards on a disc sander for a more finished look.
Then place the long edges of all your boards on the 1/4-inch circle piece. If you want to copy the front edge detail that I used on the chair frame (see image 5 below) you will need to make a reservation. Some traces of frame assembly.
Mark and drill 1/4″ holes for your paracord to go through. On the back I placed the holes 2 3/8″ vertically and 2 1/2″ horizontally. For the seat I moved the holes closer together. Carry more weight. . . 1 5 /8″ in each direction.
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Optional: I used a drill and drilled the holes at a 45 degree angle to keep the paracord as flush as possible with the top surface of the frames. The other end of the holes (on the outer edge of the frames) came from the center of the milled recesses. Only do this if it’s convenient for you… it’s not necessary. :O)
At this point, the back of your front seat should be well adjusted. Remove the clamps and use a table saw to place a 10 degree bevel on the top of the blocks to replicate what is shown in image #6 below. Also place the same 10 degree chamfer on the bottom of the rear 16 7/8″ seat post, same as #6 below.
With the boards cut, the front seat post glued and beveled and the rail edges, you are ready to start assembling the frames. Two 41, 15 3/8, and two 16 7/8-inch boards make up the backrest, while two 27-inch boards and two 13 5/16-inch boards make up the seat frame.
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You will want to mark each end of the long boards where your screws will go to attach the frames together, then drill holes (1/8″) and countersink them. Then lay the frame components on a flat surface and use the 24″ clamps to hold them in place while you pre-drill the screw holes. Go ahead and dry fit the frames until further notice. Once you’ve assembled them all, glue one corner at a time, remove the screws, gently stretch the joint enough to get some glue inside, then put the screws back. With chair supports you can skip this technique… just remove the support, glue and screw each time. When everything is dry, it is faster and easier to glue the frames together.
A small note about my seat back placement: the bottom of the front seat back attaches 1 5/8″ from the bottom of the vertical side rail, and the bottom of the rear seat back attaches 6 1/16″ from the bottom of the upright. Page Support These are not hard and fast rules, but guidelines that have worked for me.
Once the frames are attached you can sand, stain and polish them… and you’re ready for the next step (once they dry of course. :o)
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First (after pre-drilling the oak!) I screwed in the 1″ stringers just above the rear seat post (see photos #1 and 2 below) and about 6″ from the end of the seat frame. I then took a soldering iron and melted the holes in the wires on the seat frame to match the spacing of the holes on the opposite side of the frame…this is only needed on the seat frame. To increase friction, make sure to wrap the fabric as shown and make sure to seal the ends of the strap well so it doesn’t fray…and make sure the twists are tight. Make sure your strap is tight as this is what you will be attaching your diagonals to on the chair frame. The backrest strap prevents the coccyx from contacting the backrest by providing a “soft strip” for the paracord to pass through before passing through the holes in the backrest. Picture #3 below is a closer detail of these stringers, the chair frame is on the right.
I started knitting the vertical lines, then the horizontal ones with a piece of paracord… then the diagonals with another piece. Start by calculating the amount of paracord you need for the back of the chair… you can separate the horizontal and vertical from the diagonals. The shorter your pieces are, the less yarn you need to make. On the chair back it took me about 35 minutes of rope to do horizontals plus verticals and another 30 minutes to do horizontals.
First I threaded one end of the paracord through the hole closest to the corner, tied a few knots to keep it from stretching, then weaved in a zigzag pattern through the vertical holes and then the horizontal holes. When you start weaving the vertical threads, weave the existing threads in and out alternately, just like a tennis racket. Be creative with the diagonals, but be consistent in your pattern.
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IMPORTANT: Be sure to tighten the string when weaving. Don’t start another path until you are satisfied that you have it as tight as you want.
It doesn’t matter how you move from one direction to another or how you connect things…use your creativity and your intellect.
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