How To Make A Woodworking Table

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Good design is nothing more than selective evasion. This workspace is a good example of this. Combining characteristics of several historical figures from Rubo to Workmate, it becomes a new shape destined to become the centerpiece of the modern woodshop.

How To Make A Woodworking Table

I’ve never seen a workspace that I was completely satisfied with. I have a love/hate relationship with many things. I love the tool trays, but hate the way they collect chips and other debris.

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I want to be able to clamp fast, but there’s no point in speed if the clamp isn’t secure and reliable. Good design is also the art of compromise, finding a happy medium between extremes.

This bank was born with the idea of ​​creating an imitation of the English Nicholson Bank. Nicholson was popular in colonial America, and variations appeared in woodworking books well into the 1920s. A key feature of the Nicholson is the wide front skirt, which allows work to be secured both in front of and above the table. His.

The disadvantage of the elongated apron is that it limits the ability to place the bench above the edge. I narrowed and lowered the apron so that the work could be bench pressed in two directions. I was also amazed by the broken wood on some of Nicholson’s historic benches. Although I don’t plan on moving my bench very often, I decided to take it apart to make it easier to build and assemble.

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The design is based on the function of the finished bench, as well as on the process of its manufacture, movement and maintenance. The tools I used to build are basic home kit: a 10″ hybrid table saw, a 6″ jointer, and a 12″ lunchbox planer. And I didn’t need a bench saw to make my bench. Made a spoon and then made it sit on two horses.

A disposable paint roller quickly applies an even coat of yellow glue. Apply glue to only one side of the lamination. Doing it both ways wastes time and glue.

The best reason to assemble the bench top first is that when it is ready, all the other parts can be started on fabrication and assembly. It’s almost as good as having a place to sit when you already have a half-full chair.

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I started with 8/4 raw ash wood and selected the straightest pieces from my stock to use on the top. Going the length of an edge joiner, I cut each piece to about 3¼ inches wide. I then finished one surface of each piece with an edger. When I had 14 pieces ready, I moved on to the planer.

I wanted the blank to be at least 1 7/8 inch thick, but I stopped milling when I had two clean faces. Each top half is made of six pieces glued together, and keeping the pieces as thick as possible allowed me to increase the width. If the stock turns out to be less than expected, it will add a seventh piece. The goal for the top parts was to be at least 11½ inches but less than 12 inches wide.

The length of the bank was also variable. I wanted a minimum length of 84 inches, but I was able to clear a length of 90 inches out of 8 feet of rough material. After routing all the pieces, I left them out over the weekend to make sure the wood didn’t move or warp.

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I started laminating the top boards in pairs, face to face. To keep them flat, I clamped them together on the sturdiest, straightest surface I could find: a ¾-inch plywood I-beam. I let each pair sit in the clamps for at least four hours, and I let them sit for 24 hours for the glue to dry.

This bench was developed on the basis of existing machines. After cleaning one surface with a hand planer, the other surface is leveled with a portable machine.

I ran the edges of each glued pair to get a straight, square edge for each layer. I then ran the boards through the planer on edge. Instead of taking boards of a certain thickness, I again stopped when I had two clean surfaces.

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The clean pairs were a little thicker than my planned 3 inches, but I still needed to remove some material after each top section was glued. The amount that needs to be removed will depend on how well the pieces fit together.

I put two long boards between my horses and square boards around them at a distance of about a foot. This gave me a nice flat surface to work on and gave me the ability to reach all the way around, up, or down when installing the clamps. Testing stacking three pairs of boards convinced me that I could glue each half of the top section in one go.

With almost every clamp in the shop, I applied yellow glue to one surface of the two halves with a 3-inch-wide paint roller. After applying an even coat of glue, I rotated the pieces 90˚ and began to tighten the clamps, working from the center outwards.

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Trim the top parts to the final length within the capabilities of this 12-inch compound miter saw.

Wooden thumb screws at the ends of the glue joints kept the pieces from sliding out of place. I removed any seeped glue with a damp rag and scraper, and let the pieces sit in the clamps overnight.

Because I carefully melted the pieces before gluing and carefully glued them to a flat surface, the corners coming out of the clamps were in good shape. I removed the heights with a hand planer and ran the gathered ends through a portable planer to get a flat surface.

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Leaving the top parts less than 12 inches wide allowed me to use this smaller lining machine. At some point in the future you may need to refinish the top surface and a smaller planer is always an option. This strategy allowed me to cut each top half to the desired length using my sliding compound miter saw.

Bench joinery is on a different scale than furniture joinery. Details are high and there is more emphasis on function and power than appearance. The legs consist of two parts glued together face-to-face, and each pair of legs is attached to the upper and lower subframes by hinged joints.

After placing the nail locations on the subframe, lines are transferred to mark the corresponding slots on the inside of the legs.

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The leg and stretcher are assembled as a single unit, and the two ends are attached to rails that run the entire length of the bench. The massive components made it possible to find joints for joints on the outer parts of the legs, and these joints were cut before the legs were pieced together.

In furniture I use tacks for show, but on this bench I used them to make life easier. Slots are cut in the inner half of each leg only. After applying the seam, I removed most of the debris in the drill press with a ¾-inch forstner bit.

While working on my new horse-mounted tabletop, I used a chisel to line up the grooves to match the design lines. I then cut the tenons to match the slots. I cut most of the shoulders by hand, but I also cut some shoulders with a table saw to compare techniques. The hand-cut shoulders were a little neater and didn’t take much time to make. After cutting the shoulders, I removed debris around the tenon on the table saw, using the stop to guide the boards through the stack set.

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Using a small chisel, clean out the grooves on the top and bottom of the lines you made. Widening sides provide an easy fit and a strong connection thanks to connecting gussets.

Using the shoulder plane and rasp, I adjusted the fit of the joints. After adjusting the torque to a perfect fit, I figured I could make the tangs narrower, widen the outside of the slots with a quick chisel, then secure the outside joint with shims.

This saved time and strengthened the connection. When the tips get stuck, they can’t get out of the groove. After letting the glue dry, I cut the wedges with the miter saw and then the planer.

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I find it faster to cut shoulders by hand and avoid fussy adjustments on a machine. It’s just a matter of reducing the lines.

It’s easy to think of the dovetail as a decorative joint, but there are many practical reasons for using this joint to connect the ends of a bench. Most loads on a bench that is in use are end-to-end and get stuck.

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