How To Change Thermal Fuse On Electric Fan

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Hi, I have three fans on board with thermal fuses that do not experience continuity. Since fixing them is important where I live, I tried to find small blown fuses but they are very hard to find. Are there other options like avoiding them or others? Note: The pictures are from the internet but similar to my tool.

How To Change Thermal Fuse On Electric Fan

If you avoid the thermal fuse, you remove a layer of protection, and make them a potential fire hazard – thermal fuses are a fairly standard component, and should be available everywhere.

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As Nigel said it’s a bad idea to bypass the thermal fuses… something caused them to fail, and if it was heat from an air short in the motor, bypassing the fuse could result in you having a fire. If it overheats it is because the bushings/bearings on the motor need cleaning, rather than correcting the cause of the overheating….again, the best advice is to prevent it rather than replace the fuse .

“If a curl of smoke is observed, the technician will quickly investigate the cause of the trouble”…… CTX 1985I Arcade Game Monitor Service Manual The three-stage fans gathered together and stopped spinning. Cleaned and oiled its shaft bearings and also replaced the squarish capacitor but still won’t turn. I was about to throw them away when I thought “…what’s the harm in breaking them, we can learn something from this…!!”

I asked a few soldiers and all I got was a short “…there is an internal thermal fuse…”. I trawled the web for months but could not find any information on where the fuse was and how to replace it. In the end I decided to sacrifice a fan and split all the wires going to the winding.

(Note: I can only find a replacement 2A 130deg @$1.50SGD from local electronic component stores. Sorry I don’t have the matching part number from Mouser, RS n Digikey)

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It would be wise to spend the money on a new fan and give the faulty one to someone in the know. We are working with 250VAC, so be very careful. You proceed at your own risk.

At this point, I assume you know and have checked that the timer and speed selector are working properly (ie voltage is present at the output of the speed selector (grey, orange and red wires) ), schematically And see the photo.

The color of the wires used in my fan may be different from yours, so please note.

3. Take your time to trace the wires and note its color and location. It should be similar to the scheme above.

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4. Using the spare wire, connect from point “A” to “B” to close the fuse. In my case, “A” was the blue “neutral” wire on the terminal block and “B”, the gray wire on the big squarish capacitor.

Once this is done, make sure your fan (without the blades) is resting well and securely while we go to power it up.

5. Connect the fan motor and turn it on. If the fuse is faulty, the motor will spin, mine. If it wasn’t, point “C” could have been used instead of “B”, since you can’t tell which terminal it was. don’t worry

6. Disconnect the power. Move point “C” to “B” and turn on the fan again. If it still doesn’t turn, it’s probably the capacitor.

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2. Unsolder (or cut) the wires at the capacitor terminals and connect them to a new capacitor (same type).

3. Turn on the fan. If the motor still refuses to spin then I believe the problem is with the motor winding and it’s time to say goodbye to the fan.

1. To make replacing the fuses easier, we need to keep its wiring harness from the control unit to the motor as much as possible. The 5 harness wires are going into the motor housing. In tracing this harness, starting from the motor housing, I traced the ground (green / yellow) and neutral (blue) wires that end in a terminal block and the other three wires (grey, orange, Red) found.

2. Remove the ground and neutral wires (no need to cut) from the terminal block. Unsolder the gray, orange and red wires in the speed selector, first noting their location.

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(I may have noticed that I cut the entire harness about 10cm from the motor… big mistake… but that was before I decided to do it!!)

3. Using a flat end screw driver as a lever, remove the motor housing mounting rod away from the control unit.

5. Remove the metal housing screws. Remove the rotor and winding slowly and carefully, with sufficient slack from the harness.

6. The coils are tied with wires and covered with some kind of lacquer. Some of them need to be cut (see point “X” in the picture) using a penknife or scissors with a sharp tip. Look for a bulge (where the fuse is) and note where it ends.

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7. Carefully cut the black sheath cover to reveal the woven brown sheaths, which are also tied with string.

8. Trace the blue neutral wire from the harness to the winding. You will notice that you end up inside a large envelope at the top. This is our goal. Cut the cords that bind this sheath.

9. This large sheath, which is flat, holds the fuse and other coated wire. Use your fingers to lift it and press on its sides to restore its tubular shape.

10. With a wriggling, squeezing and pulling action, gently remove this sheath and the thermal fuse will be exposed. Set aside the removed coating for later reuse.

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11. Note that one lead of the fuse is also covered to prevent electrical contact. Cut the side of this sheath to about 10mm length. Expose the lead through this cut.

12. Keeping the two leads in sight, cut them as close as possible to the fuselage. This gives enough space to solder the new fuse.

17. Insert the new fuse assembly into the coils as neatly as possible. Turn the black cover and cord back. Make sure no rope or black covering sheath is exposed in the rotor area.

21. Reconnect the wiring harness and reconnect the ground and neutral wires to the terminal block. (For me, I had to solder all the wires back and insulate them with heat shrink tubes. I also had to remove the oscillators to prevent them from rubbing against each other)

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I didn’t use lacquer to protect the coils and it has been working for about 6 hours a day for about 2 months.

To prevent overheating, I adjusted the timer to disable the permanent “on” option. Using a timing mechanism there will be a rest period in the middle, when there is no one in the room or there is no intention to use the fan for a while.

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