How To Build A Modern Chair – My first step was to measure all the wood. I used a hacksaw to cut the wood to the desired length and attached it to the rope. I use a planer to make sure both sides are flat and smooth.
I started by cutting out all of my fabric pieces. I made sure that each piece was the same width and length.
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I used a router table to give the wood a smooth edge. Speed is important here. Otherwise, you can burn the wood.
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I used studs to attach these pieces. First I drilled some 8mm holes in the wood. The depth of the hole is slightly longer than half of the dowel, so there is excess glue. I used a jig to make sure all the holes were straight.
All legs are made of 50 mm wood because the back is thicker. I used a band saw to cut the corners and I used a table saw to cut the legs in the corners.
The next step is to glue the parts. I tried to remove all the burnt spots and it didn’t work with 200# paper.
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I made a model in Solidworks and decided to post the plans when I get everything sorted. Because I change the design a little when I make it because of the material. However, many people need a plan and want to build one.
Anyway, here’s a shot of the cutting plan, I think you can figure it out. This plan includes all the measurements needed to make this chair. But assembly is a bit difficult because the parts are not marked. But with the help of perspective, it is not so difficult. The format is in metric units. (eg 500 means 500 mm) Ignore the number after the period. It doesn’t have to be that specific. You don’t need fancy or expensive tools to make this chair. Read on to find out how.
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Making a chair can be difficult because it has to look good and feel good. So I designed a chair in an experiment from the 1960s – and it’s amazing.
Of course, you can customize this Selig chair at a good hardware store. But you can solve this with the equipment you already have or invest a little in a few new ones.
I ordered a pre-made cushion from Joybird for a copy of this chair. The size of the socks determines the size of some of my chairs. There you can buy your pillows and check if they fit you.
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Many years ago I fell in love with traditional hand tools. I love to recreate and work with them, so I used them a lot in this project. But you don’t need any hand tools to make this chair. Few modern tools can do all the design and integration required.
To adapt your chair to a specific shape, start by drawing on paper. All angles and dimensions are perfect. If you change the size, you can make a special pillow.
Once you have it, create a complete picture. I do it with white melamine. It is easy to erase pencil marks with mineral spirits.
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Print the pattern full size, then cut in 1/2. In templates or strips of fiberboard (MDF), stay outside the line. Use patterns carefully and take all the time you need to perfect them. Mentor’s pattern follows them.
Don’t worry if you don’t have a router or router table. I’ll discuss other options along the way.
Draw your patterns on the wood and cut out, no more than 1/8 inch. Out of line. This leaves some space and makes the third step easier. If you are not using a router with a small pattern, still use the pattern. Glue them to your wood and cut them out with a knife or chisel.
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Attach the template to the cutout with one-inch nails or staples. Use a small amount on the table or router to remove excess. Remove the pattern and continue with the next small stitch.
If you are not using a router, place the pieces in a single row. To do this, take a belt sander, edge sander, rotary sander, or all of the above. For hard radii, if you don’t have a rotary sander, you’ll need sandpaper rolled into a round or circular sander.
Examine where the front leg meets the back leg at the junction of the hind leg. The mating parts end with the outer edge of the back panel, so they should be perfect. If you need to adjust, sand the parts with a sander, disc sander, or edge sander.
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Once you’re happy with the fit, mark each one where the dowel goes. Paste the dowel template on top and register with the registered numbers. Then check your hole. I used two 3/8. Perforation holes in each joint. Use small square brackets for this.
Adjust the dryer thread to make sure everything is correct. Use dowels designed for integration, not stock hardware. Glue the dowel to the pipe, allowing the glue to run out of the hole when the joint is made. The tight-fitting soft cap prevents glue leakage and blocks the lock.
Once you are satisfied with your fit, glue the bladder and tip, insert the cap and press the joints. Use pipe clamps to secure the housing. A block attached to the piece prevents the pipe from moving. Apply one comb at a time and don’t rush.
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After the glue dries, radius any sharp edges by 3/8. small round. If you don’t have a router, you can easily do this with a handheld device. A rough, belt sander, orbital sander, hand planer, hammer, or any combination of these tools is fair game. Avoid dating at this time.
Line 5/32. x 1/2 in. A hole in the middle of each seat. Best practice is to make two passes using 1/8. A little about the compact router with side tips. In this way, you can create a ditch that stands on the edge. Otherwise, you can see the slots in the table and fill in the resulting gaps.
Use your template to trace holes all over the seat frame. Test fit, add glue and caps. When the glue dries, glue the back edge at 75 degrees.
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Cut around the back of the chair in the finished position and stay outside the line. Then fold them into strips 1/4 to the edges. Round flat, sandbar or block.
Cut the front and front bracket and adjust the front bracket as shown in the picture. Align the bottom edge of the preprint and make the top edge 75 degrees. After turning the back drawer, thread seven 1/4. Punch holes on one side of each spine depending on the thickness.
Use a center pin and a 1/4. Drill the space (Fig. 11A) and then 1/4 to locate the hole in the space. A hole in the top of the cap. You can set up a vertical drill for your drill or rotate it freely.
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Attach all loops to the lower wing, then add the upper wing (Figure 11B). For such a complex assembly with many connections, I use adhesive tape because the open time is long.
Place the assembled side on the work surface and place the handle in place. Copy the angle from the back corner to the bottom of the handle with the T-bevel. Look at the angle in meters.
As shown in the diagram, the thickness of the tape is getting thicker. I saw a tape to cut this tape. If you don’t have one, you can cut the strip by hand or just sand it. Do not design the posterior elbow joint area.
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Place your elbows and forearms under your armpits so you know to stay away from that area as well. At this point you may want to adjust the cuffs and hems. Or you can “squeeze” the top as I did (Figure 13A) and twist the bottom slightly (Figure 13B). Remove the top with a foil disc
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