How To Build A Chess Table – Chess is a universal game regardless of gender, age and ability. Anyone can play chess. Anyone can play competitively or casually. And with today’s technology, anyone can play anyone around the world on your cell phone. While I play dozens of chess games a day on my phone or computer, it’s not the same as playing on a physical chessboard with someone sitting across from you.
So this week I decided to do some chess. But when it comes to videography, just making a chessboard is boring and I needed a place for the figure. This is how the idea of a chess board was born. I wanted the drawer to open instead of lifting the drawer or attaching it with hinges. This is a style box I made earlier with two player Chinese checkers.
How To Build A Chess Table
But I don’t do slices. First, I don’t think I have the patience to make the entire chess piece to size. Second, I have a collection that has been waiting for a board for almost 3 years now. I picked up this collection a few years ago during my travels. I have no idea what material they are made of, but each one is unique, so they are hand carved. There is actually a lot of variation from song to song. However, I like this set and now it’s time to get a proper board. I never made this project, but I have a free SketchUp file for those interested.
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I’ve been trying to “become a felt board” lately. My wood shelf seems to be a place where wood goes and is forgotten. Everything on it has been collecting dust for a long time. I use walnut and cottage cheese for contrasting colors. The first step in my milling process is to cut the pieces to length on the miter saw station. I say this a lot, but it’s incredibly convenient to have a separate cross station that easily handles long and wide boards and is always set up and ready to go.
The nut I was working with was a little wide for my joint. I was still able to tape the boards across the width, but knowing that this piece would come apart, I decided it would be a little easier to tape first.
Now I cut my material into walnut pieces and hickory into sheets of even thickness.
Chess Board Dimensions
To lighten the glue a bit, I decided to cut the pieces to a fixed length. This should be done after applying the glue.
Eight moves are required on a chessboard or checkerboard. each of the four reference materials. The number one glue.
With the board seated in the clamps, I started the box material. Another step in the milling process is the rough cut on the miter saw station.
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The two surfaces are uniformly joined to the joint and then glued to the plane with the appropriate thickness. My “clone” had to help me out.
Finally, it can be placed on the table by cutting the end of the last page to length. I stretched this about 1/8 inch longer than the final length. You’ll see why this is necessary in a minute.
I don’t have a separate 45 degree cross sled and really don’t want to mess with my main sled. Instead I made a homemade slide with two meter gauges. The red handle miter gauge is from my table saw and the silver handle miter gauge is from a band saw. I used a square on the table saw to set each 90 degree fence.
File:chess Board With Chess Set In Opening Position 2012 Pd 04.jpg
I used square hickory on all four sides for the curly fencing. Several washers are required to secure the miter rails. Instant slider.
The reason for using a fence with a miter rail is that it adds a lot of stability to the cutting process. I used extra long material. Attaching the stop beam to the fence provides four identical sides that form a perfect square.
In the last step, the knife should be turned 45 degrees so that the resulting slices are perfectly square. At this time, the first glue on the board is ready.
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The board was in the tanks for half an hour. This is enough for the glue to harden in the joint, but now is a great time to release the pressure.
The board should be cut into 8 more parts. The other side can be cut into a 90 degree square and a pre-made strip is laid and then the strips are cut with a table saw fence.
The second glue is the end grain glue. I attached two straight boards to each side to make sure everything was in place and attached clamps to hold the joints. This ensures that all connections are dead without manually sorting anything.
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Here’s why I chose the 12-inch board. 12 inches is the maximum reflectivity of my tape. If I leave the board as solid wood it will cause expansion and contraction problems as the board will eventually become a skid pad. So the deck is just a thin layer, it’s actually a checkerboard.
1/2 inch plywood is used as the core of the board, which means that the checkerboard must be attached to it. This is where a vacuum sealer comes in handy. Instead, I used duct tape around the perimeter, started the rest of the drawers on top, and then applied a gallon of paint and a half gallon of wood glue. It worked very well.
With board number three glued down, I went back to working on the box. As a base, I wanted to create a book to match the Hickory panel. Luckily, I had a perfectly sized piece to use on my wood shelf. The folded sides of the box ensure that the piece is of sufficient size.
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After the three-sided squares were joined and planed, the hickory was again placed in the center. Then I rolled them up, bandeau side up.
It is much easier to stick such thin panels together with tape than with glue. First glue both parts firmly to the good side.
Turn off, open the joint, apply glue and straighten. Depending on the thickness of the panels, you may not need to add weight to the pieces to keep them level. In this case, I literally threw it on the table and sat down. The tape on the bottom holds the joint tightly, and the pressure point of the glue ends on the bad side, which makes cleaning easier.
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Back to the chessboard. At this point, the pump core is slightly larger than the discharge valve. The shooting board makes everything beautiful and even from a quick work.
I didn’t want the pump core to be visible when I slid the cover off. To avoid this, I sawed the plywood like a miter saw.
At each end, each piece was cut at 45 degrees. Although it is a bit long. It is always better to narrow them down and balance each separately.
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I used a 45 degree bracket on my shooting board to fit each frame. That way I can go around the board and make sure each piece is shaved to the correct length. Once one side was properly assembled, I used two pieces to hold it in place to fit the next piece.
When the whole body was nice and straight, I did some surface treatment with a checker board. I’m a big fan of using card scraps instead of sandpaper whenever possible. They are much faster, leave a better surface and cost much less in the long run than sand.
The gluing of the chessboard frame is done with tape, as is the base plate. A little glue and tape on the joint to prevent stretching.
Chess Coffee Tables
Back to the box parts. The bottom panel and the top of the slide are both in the holes. Before cutting the grooves, I cut three of the four side pieces 1/8″ and made the front 1/8″ taller than the other sides. to cut holes
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