How To Make A Table From A Door – Place the hollow core inside the door on the assembly, with the help of a few pieces of wood. The 1×4 around the outside gives a nice finish and keeps the table stable, and with the help of some cross pieces, give the legs something to stick to. Assuming you have a free door, the table will cost you less than $5 and you’ll be recycling something that isn’t likely to be thrown away.
You’ll need a basic door that’s hollow inside – a smooth, unpatterned door, of course!
How To Make A Table From A Door
A 10″ by 2″ by 4″ piece of lumber that you’ll cut into two 1″ by 4″ pieces. Choose the cleanest and straightest you can find. If you don’t have a table saw, you’ll need enough 1x4s to go around table – about two 7″ pieces and two 3″ pieces (three 8″ pieces are enough).
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An 8″ by 2″ by 4″ piece of lumber that you’re going to cut into two 2″ by 2″ pieces. Choose the cleanest and straightest you can find. If you don’t have a table saw, you’ll need enough 2x2s to make four feet and two beads – about six 3″ lengths (two 8″ pieces are fine).
A miter saw (or table saw) is essential for ripping 2 x 4s. A miter saw is an easy way to cut wood lengthwise. I used a nailer, wood glue and some screws to assemble the table. Filler wood, orbital sander and paint were used to finish the table, but all of this is not necessary if you are only going to use it as an electric table.
Split a 10-inch-long 2×4 into two (nominal) 1x4s. Since the 2×4 is actually 1.5×3.5 and the notch is not negligible, the wood will come out about 3/4 inch thick.
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Tear an 8-inch-long 2-by-4 into two 2-by-2 pieces. These will create the legs and cross braces.
The 1×4 will form the edge of the table, so cut one end and measure the edge of the table. Mark and cut carefully as solvents are unforgiving. If you don’t have a miter saw, a butt joint will be more suitable.
It’s set 2″ by 2″ on purpose, to help convey the idea that this isn’t a heavy table and you probably won’t be sitting on it!
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I cut two pieces to fit the bottom of the table, and reinforced the top and gave something to hold the legs. They are 400mm (16 inches) long at each end, but you just have to choose the distance you think is good. The legs are fixed and screwed in place, then screwed from the edge and go to the cross arm. The position of the legs is not important, but the closer they are to the end, the easier it will be for the table to pass through the door. There are accessories available that allow you to easily do two legs, but they will make us your door price…
Glue and tape a piece of plywood over the hole, then cut some wood to fill the hole on top (jmarusoi helpfully says that if you’re going to use a computer desk, leaving the hole open gives a useful advice that if you are going to use the table for a computer, leave the hole to give a special reference .good way to interact with lines).
Spend as much time as you need on this step – not only does it make the table work better, it just makes it cleaner. Filling the hole with wood filler, sanding and painting will take longer than building the table! 1. Cut the recycled railings to length for the legs. The normal height of the dining table should be 29 inches — subtract the thickness of the door and glass from 29, then cut the legs to length.
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2. Use 1″ x 3″ poplar to make the skirt panels. The skirt is the part that extends over the legs and holds the table top. To determine the skirt size, measure the length and width of the door (seats), subtract the thickness of the frame (legs), then subtract another 2 inches to give the seat 1 inch overhang on each side (large photo for reference).
3. Punch three pockets on the inside edge of the skirt panels to secure the skirt to the frame.
4. Use a pocket hole on the inside of the skirt panel about a foot apart. These will be used to attach the skirt boards to the bottom of the table.
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6. Sand, prime and paint the table base. (We left them on our table.) Let them dry completely.
7. Attach the base table to the top by screwing it through the pocket hole on the inside of the skirt panels.
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Learn how to stencil a patterned rug to personalize a room or hide a worn floor. The new table is placed in the dining room, ready for your computer and sewing equipment.
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. My wife spent some time researching the “just the right size” door for the dining room table.
The current couch is from my childhood and doesn’t match the decor or style he likes. Also on one side of the table is an inexpensive three-shelf wooden bookcase of the same kind that you can buy at any store.
The goal is to have a table that not only saves space but also looks good and has storage for my wife’s computer and sewing supplies. It is up to date and needs a large desktop.
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The door he saw was smaller than the door and it was wooden. Dimensions 67″ high by 24″. It has a white glass door and a large padlock on the other side of the door. Knobs and other accessories have been removed to give the table its best appearance.
I decided to build a shelf under the table across the width of the piece. I used 1 x 10 pinecone for the shelf. The front legs consist of two rails with equal holes.
I assembled the cabinet using 3-notch self-tapping screws. I attached it to the door using 2″ drywall screws from the bottom down so the screws wouldn’t show from above.
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The front legs are attached at the top with two 3″ lag bolts. I drilled 1/4″ holes and countersunk 3/4″ holes about 1/4″ deep to accept the lag bolt caps.
During assembly, I painted the living room the shade my wife chose and then drilled holes for the removable middle shelves.
The shelves are removable and the front legs are left unpainted so to speak, and because that’s how he likes it best.
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The end table, however, was not something I could make myself, so I bought it at my local glass shop. I knew I wanted to go all the way to the top of the glass door so the recess in the door would show while the counter was flat. A glass expert told me I needed 1/4″ smooth face glass. DIY Forum Closed Week wouldn’t be complete without some recycling, right? So we combed the blogosphere for the best and most unique ways to repurpose an old door (And don’t forget to link your door project here!)
Research new local restoration projects and refurbish their old doors. You can search your basement or grocery store. Try to save yards. You can find antique doors online! When you find your door (if you have some unused seats somewhere in your house), start with some good work. We have everything from building new furniture to renovating your garden or deck. Check these out!
A great option is to turn the storage doors upside down! This is a set of headboards we found repurposed from old doors. You can find more headboards here and DIY headboards here.
How To Salvage A Door Into A Coffee Table
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