How To Make A Table Tennis Return Board – I’ve been meaning to build a back plate for a while, but now that I’ve had complaints from neighbors in my decent building about the noise of the coals hitting the glass windows (
), I finally decided to get one. Obviously, being so cheap, I won’t be buying pre-made, so I’m looking for some suggestions on how to make them. I actually plan to do two, one with reverse and one with LP.
How To Make A Table Tennis Return Board
First, what tire would you recommend? I don’t want to pay more for them so I plan to get the 10x rubber deal from Everyrang, preferably under $30. So my options for reverse rubber are: Kokutaku 007, RITC Training Rubber, Three Nine 999T and RITC Cross Universal . If you think those tires are mud, I’m willing to pay up to $40 for say a Mercury II or a Davey 2008 Super Power or a Reactor Thunder or something like that.
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For LP it looks like my only choice would be the Meteor 8512 so no questions about that. However, I have never played with LP before, would it be better if it had a sponge? Also, how effective is the LP treatment? I want the spin rate to be as high as possible.
For the board, what wood and what thickness should I get? I may have to thicken it up a bit to reduce the noise. More importantly, what type of hinge mechanism should I use to ensure optimal adjustability in terms of “rocket angle” and stability? Note that I’m not very good at woodworking, so something relatively simple would be best. I would actually be willing to pay extra for some kind of pre-made hinge to attach the board somehow. And what size would be good? I was thinking about a 2×3 layout, does it have to be bigger? Of course, I can also do 3×3 or 2×5.
Disclaimer: Everything else in this post is morning coffee speculation. Rubber related: Make sure the rubber is fast enough (like Dawei Super Power 2008) to provide a fast enough block. I’ve seen real problems with tight super slow tires like the bottom end of the 3 nines and the Mercury II’s powerband that “snaps” back into the grid before coming back to you.
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About the noise: some kind of foam backing on the opposite side of the plywood will definitely help dampen / dampen / muffle the sound. Anything from carpet padding to foam insulation will be easy to cut and attach, but you can go crazy buying materials designed for acoustic dampening.
I did this a long time ago. Now it is filled with rubber and I only have 4 brand new cheap sheets, the rest are all my friends old rubber that I cut into rectangular tile shapes and glue just like the tiles. The biggest problem for me was how to attach the board(s) to the legs. The 3rd picture shows what I did, the only thing missing from the picture are the two very strong and sturdy rubber pads that sit between the metal pads and the wood, on each side of course. The rubber pads are strong enough to hold the board at any angle. If interested I can take a picture of the board to show you all the details with rubber and pads. Do not buy new tires you do not need.
If noise is not a problem, is there any reason to be concerned about the rubber connection? I guess if you’re trying to simulate an inverted rubber pillow by slowing down the rotation, I can see that, but it would slow down your returns. I think it would be best if you hit it off the wood – it will give you a lot of spin at the same speed as LP.
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Thanks everyone, these are great suggestions! The reason I thought about the MII 36 is because I intend to use it on my BH as well, so I’ll have a few extras for that, but it’s cheap enough that I don’t really need to worry about it. Price wise I think I would go with the Dawei 2008 SP as each ring is 10x their wholesale price.
Colev, that looks like a great design, can you give me some details on the hinge mechanism? I think I’ll make one that sits on the table so it’s easier to move around. After all, the ping pong table is on another floor of my building.
Chopshop, yes the noise is a problem so I want the rubber to muffle it a bit. Also, if wood behaves similarly to the glass I get in, the speed is too great to simulate real yields IMO.
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I now have 2 return boards and a few months of experience. I can really recommend slow rubber and thin plywood to dampen the shot. My problem with my return board is that I can’t move properly. I can only practice control but if I use any force the ball flies away. I got 1″ thick but I recommend half or maybe 3/8″. It is a cheap tool.
My back boards are both 5×2. You do not need 3 rows, I only have 1500, but missing 2 rows seems impossible.
Kolev’s mechanism is bulky and difficult to shoot. Just buy 2 music stands and attach plywood to them. Super cheap and easy + it’s adjustable in every possible way and you have the advantage of two plates facing different directions. It is very important for exercise. I put 1 down and 1 diagonal and they both look at me and I can alternate shots all day.
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Puppy412 : Sorry man, I don’t mean to be disrespectful, but I know more training will make me better, I don’t have to be here to figure it out.
Thanks man, music sounds like a great idea! Any specifics you would recommend? My only concern is that the music usually stands tilted up, how do I set this up?
It seems that slow low roll robberies would be best, does anyone know which of the cheap 10x volume robberies would fit the criteria? I wasn’t even looking for something that would really allow me to rally, I was looking. For replacing glass windows
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, but if I could find a setup that would allow me to do that, that would be awesome! I can get 3
Don’t use slow, low throw rubbers as they require almost unnatural power and spin to get the ball back to your side of the table. Or you have to mount the plate vertically, which is not the normal position for the blade.
I am a professional musician with a very big PA, lights and all the gear king and I thought to use some of my stands but it is not so easy if I did not have professional gear. The wooden legs are not difficult – it took me 15 minutes. I’ll take some more detailed pictures of the mechanism tonight, because it’s actually the hardest part to figure out, but once I got the idea, it’s pretty quick, after 15 minutes.
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My table is outside and I just lean a piece of plywood against the other end of the table and lower the net so the ball lands on my side of the table. I’m considering putting rubber on it, but I think the rubber loses grip quickly (Louisiana). I was thinking about short peeps, but I’m like “why”? What is the difference in compensation boards with wood versus rubber? Not that you have topspin. Is a rubber-inspired block different from a wooden one? Maybe putting different types of rubber (LP, MP, SP and inverted) around the plate will liven it up, but regardless the return plate is the solution. I want to give it a real try to see if it’s worth it.
Pretty easy except for the time spent cutting the rubber and gluing them. I used any possible rubber I could find and it makes the game really interesting. One thing – do not try to shuffle the dice upside down. It won’t work, but on the other hand, it might be fun to get some extra practice with peeing
If your shots are extremely accurate…or if you never get tired of picking up ground balls and not playing.
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Some cheap Artengo. I believe they were no more than €5 each so I probably paid around €30 which I am really sorry about.
See this. I just copied his idea. I bought the exact same one on ebay video. They are bent everywhere and I mean everywhere. The height and every possible angle is adjustable.
It is a music stand
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