How To Make Polished Concrete Table – You are here: home / home decor / Furniture projects / DIY concrete dining table and dining room renovation plans
Two weeks ago, I was the owner of a very sad dining table: an el-cheapo Ikea table and chairs, and a bench I ordered online from Target. Bad, sad, inappropriate dining room. I want to update the look of our kitchen, with something lighter and brighter.
How To Make Polished Concrete Table
There is only one problem: my children. 2-year-old twins and cute furniture do not allow us to combine. Now the twins live at home full time. This means my jewelry lasts all day, every day beats. I think it’s very easy to let the dirty and ugly things roll in when you don’t have the good stuff.
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Okay, R. So you want to roll over the recliner and use it for a jungle gym? No problem. I stole furniture from my grandmother’s house anyway. Run away!
So the twins want to have a chair pushing race at home? Run away. They cost $20 at Ikea.
And it continues that I will not buy a new dining set for at least another year. I don’t want to live with a sad eating plan for a few more years, which leaves me with a DIY project on my hands.
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I have asked for a concrete dining table: like this. I have also found some great DIY concrete kitchen countertops tutorials around the blogosphere. Mix the two together and you have a recipe for a DIY concrete dining table top!
Other than the actual dining room set and the concrete mixer, you can get everything you need for this project at Home Depot (No, they’re not paying me to say that. I love shopping there. I know where to do it. look. things, and people don’t judge me when I ask really stupid questions).
In case you forgot, here’s a reminder of my sad dining room. Yes, there are stickers on the bench. Like I said…kids.
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This table comes with a blade, so the first thing I have to do is balance the top. I installed L-brackets on the underside of the table. I don’t want the tabletop to slide or roll when I start using the concrete.
First I went to Kilz. I have a liter that I keep on hand for various projects. A single coat works well.
Then it’s time to paint. I used high gloss paint (extra durable and washable for children) in the traditional white shade. I love white Ikea furniture and Debbie on A Small Project went through the trouble of taking the dresser front to Home Depot to get a classy mix.
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I painted two coats on most surfaces. I went for the third coat on the worktop, because it was very.
I waited a few days, then taped off the painted area on the base of the table before moving on to the fun part: concrete!
After I cleaned all the surfaces I didn’t want covered, I proceeded to sand the table top and edges with fine sandpaper. I won’t lie. My table top was washed and frozen to begin with so this step was very easy.
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Next: the actual concrete. Ardex Feather Finish is a common choice for concrete countertops, but I’ve heard it’s hard to find. The man at Home Depot was out of his mind. So I jumped on my iPhone (at the entrance to the store) to try to find another solution: Henry FeatherFinish. According to Emily at Better Remade, it’s pretty much the same. Sold!
Getting started mixing: I’m no mixing method and motion expert, but I have an idea. Mix in small portions. This stuff dries quickly, so you don’t want the mixture in the bucket to dry before you put it all in. You can sprinkle water on top of the concrete mix as you slow down the drying process, but be careful not to add too much water.
Your first outfit will be rough. Don’t expect to get full coverage on your first visit. I ended up doing three coats, sanding between each one.
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Somewhere around cover 2 I think I started to lose my mind. Like I said, I’m not a concrete laying expert and I can’t get the perfect, smooth one I want. After closing I accepted the fact that this would be perfect and it would just add ‘character’ to the table!
A note on edging: It’s easiest to keep the knife flush with one of the tops of the edging boards, rather than trying to round the corner when placing the concrete. I finished with a good angle.
I have a confession to make now: I forgot to buy a trowel. And the temperature was below zero, so I didn’t have a chance to leave the house anymore
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I did not take these pictures during the process. You know how it works. You have enough close contact with the wet concrete in the camera. Why take the risk with a counter top sealer?
Darkens the concrete slightly, leaving a semi-gloss finish. So it washed well and I didn’t notice any stains. But, only for a few days. I think if I have a problem I will just repin.
All told, I think I spent about $100 on supplies – paint, concrete, buckets, etc. more challenging – and rewarding – DIY projects. If you are a beginner, keep your goals simple. Plan for a basic color treatment with a plain border. The key to success is building a strong, non-melting mold to pour the concrete. Plan to spend several weeks on this project. It will take about a week for the concrete to harden, so work in a place where the countertop will not be disturbed.
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To determine the size of your countertop, measure the clean cabinets that the countertop will sit on (photo 1). Add an extra 3/4″ for each overlap. Our countertop island will be 3′ x 4′.
The key to a great countertop is a well-designed design to pour the concrete into. Start with a 4′ x 6′ piece of 1″ thick melamine chipboard. Set it securely on a pair of sawhorses. Measure and mark the exact dimensions of the base of the mold (photo 2), then cut your dimensions using the chapter search.
Cut the side m. Measure and mark four 2-3/4″ wide lines. Use a table saw to make cuts. We will cut our four strips for 4′ long, although we will cut the short side down a bit. .
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Attach the longer side first. Drill 2 “pilot holes every 6 inches along the bottom of the side piece and into the edge of the large horizontal piece of melamine. Then attach two ways with 2” wood screws. Also for the other long side. For the short side, cut the strips to size and tie them in the same way you did for the long side. Use a carpenter’s square to check the angle and adjust as needed.
To determine the size of your countertop, measure your base cabinets or existing countertop. If you are measuring the base cabinet, add an extra 3/4″ along the way for overhang.
If you need a cutout in your kitchen or bathroom countertop, measure and mark the bottom of the handle. When determining the size of the pieces, consider the thickness of the melamine board side pieces. Do a dry level of the kitchen sink or saw to make sure the size is correct.
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To start cutting, drill a pilot hole in the inner corner of the part to be removed. Then insert the jigsaw into the hole and cut from hole to hole along the edge marks. Make sure your cut line is straight so you don’t have a big gap between where the horizontal and vertical moldings meet.
Measure and then cut the side pieces for trimming. Connect them in the same way you connect the pieces of the outer side by attaching to the edges of the base inside the cut (photo 1).
Carefully clean sawdust and other materials. The bottom of the design will be above the countertop, so it is important to base the concrete on a clean surface (photo 2).
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Apply a small bead of 100 percent silicone sealant to all interior corners and mold seams. Cover the bead with a sealing rod and allow it to dry completely for 24 hours (photo 3). You can also use the tip of your finger to smooth
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