How To Make Your Own Lounge Chair

How To Make Your Own Lounge Chair – You don’t need fancy and expensive tools to build this chair. Read on to find out how.

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How To Make Your Own Lounge Chair

Grabbing a chair can be intimidating because it needs to look good and feel good. So I set up my chair in a time-tested 1960s design – and it’s amazing.

Simple Modern Outdoor Chair

However, you can make this Selig chair with a shop full of good electronics. But you can overcome this with the tools you already have or invest a little in some new ones.

I ordered some pre-made cushions from Joybird, the company that makes this chair. The size of the cushion determined the other dimensions of my chair. You can buy your cushions there and make sure they fit.

I fell in love with hand tools many years ago. I love restoring them and working with them, so I used them a lot for this project. But you don’t need to be a craftsman to make this chair. Some popular modern tools allow you to create and join all that is needed.

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To make your chair look better, start mocking up using pieces. You will get all your angles and measurements right. If you change the dimensions, you will need to make custom cushions.

Once you have it right, make all the drawings. I do this on white melamine. Alterations are easy to make by erasing pencil marks with mineral spirits.

Print the large patterns, then cut them to 1/2-inch. Medium density fiberboard (MDF) with a jigsaw or band saw to fit outside the line. Enjoy your look carefully, take the time you need to perfect it. Follow your router’s model exactly.

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If you don’t have a router or router table, don’t worry. I’ll tell you about the alternatives as we go.

Trace your shape onto your wood, then cut them out, no more than 1/8-inch. Outside the line. This will allow a little rooting, which will facilitate the third step. If you use a router with a small pattern, you will still create patterns. Trace on your wood and cut with a saw or jigsaw.

Check your rough cuts with one-inch nails or full nails. Reduce information using router interface or router table. Close the pattern, connect to another cut piece and continue.

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If you’re not using a router, sand your sides instead. For this, go with a belt sander, edge sander, spindle sander or all of the above. For tighter radii, if you don’t have a spindle sander, you’ll need a circular file or sandpaper.

Measure the alignment of the front leg and rear support where the joint areas of the rear leg meet. The joined areas end at the end of the back wood, so they must be precise. If you want to change, handle the pieces with sandpaper, a disc sander, or an edge sander.

When you are satisfied with the fit, mark each joint where the dowels will go. Hold your jig over the joint and label it with the letters you made. Then drill your holes. I used two 3/8-in. Dowel holes in each panel. Use a broad point to do this.

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Dry fit the dowel points to make sure everything is correct. Make sure you use dowels for the joints and not plain dowels from the hardware store. Composite dowels are molded, pressing the joints together to allow glue to flow out of the holes. A dowel with a smooth surface prevents glue from escaping and prevents the joint from sealing.

When you are satisfied with the fit, apply glue to the dowels and joints, insert the dowels and seal the joints. Use pipe clamps to hold them properly. Stopping construction blocks in areas prevents pipes from sliding. Build only one connector at a time so you don’t have to rush.

When the glue dries, trim all sharp edges with a 3/8-in. surrounding area. If you don’t have a router, you can easily do this with hand tools. A rasp, belt sander, orbital sander, hand planes, spokeshaves, or any combination of these tools are fair game. Avoid arm rests during this time.

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Make a 5/32-in. x 1/2 in. The edge is between each part of the seat. The best way is to go through two sections using a 1/8-in. Bit on compact router with edge guide. This way you can make grooves that stop at the side frames. Otherwise, you can make grooves in the table and fill the gaps later.

Using your dowel jig, drill holes in all parts of the chair. Measure the fit, then apply glue and dowels. When the glue is dry, fold the edge at 75 degrees.

Cut the seat belts to their full shape, stay outside the line. Then sand the line and round the edges with a 1/4-in. A circular, sand block or block plane.

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Cut the back and front beds, place the front beds as shown in the picture. Just round the edges of the front beds and straighten the edges to 75 degrees. After rounding the back cuts, make seven long cuts about 1/4-inch apart. Dowel holes in the edge of each rear mattress, consistent with thickness.

Use a dowel center with a 1/4-in. spacer to locate the dowel holes in the screws (Figure 11A), then drill a 1/4-in. Dowel holes at the end of the spindle. You can install a vertical drilling jig on your drill press or drill your own.

Place all the spinners on the bottom, then install the upper beds (Figure 11B). For a complex assembly with lots of parts, I use masking tape because it takes more time.

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Place the assembled part on your work bench and place the armrest in place. Fill the corner from the back joint to the end of the armrest using a T-bevel. Cut the corners with a miter saw.

Armrests are shorter from back to front as shown in the picture. I used a hacksaw to cut this tape. If you don’t have one, you can cut the tape with a handsaw or band-saw. Do not create a backrest-armrest contact area.

With the armrest in place, follow the front support under the armrest, so you also know how to stay away from the seat. Now you can smooth the hand towel, round the edges and call it good. Or you can “pull” the top as I did (Photo 13A) and slowly rotate the bottom (Photo 13B). Sand the surface with a flap-disc sanding wheel on a grinder.

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Dry-assemble the seat without dowels using pipe, then mark the location of each part on its mounting. Mark and drill holes in the seat and bed.

With the seat disassembled, place the drilled part in position on the side of the seat and mark the position of the dowel in place of the dowel. Drill holes in the seat. Put glue on the dowel and joint at the top and join the back and seat frame together on one side. Place dowels on one side of the chair and bed frame and press into the dowels on the other side.

Again, use concealer glue to give yourself extra time. Use pipe clamps to press the points home.

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The rear connector is a standard connector. First drill the back with a doweling jig, then mark the armrest with a center dowel. Next, insert the dowel into the hole in the back, insert the armrest, and trace the edge of the dowel along the armrest. This gives you proof of free drilling of the hole. I used a 3/8-in. Cut in some places.

Attach the dowel to the top joint and the front joint to the top. Press the joints together. Use packing tape to hold the front of the armrest and let the glue dry.

Edit and modify all relevant fields. Use what you have: sander-disk, belt sander, rasp, files and/or blocks.

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Once the shape passes the eye test, sand the entire seat and apply the desired finish. I sanded to 800 grit and applied five coats of General Finish gel topcoat. It’s easy to use and you don’t have to worry about stains or sagging. But it doesn’t set quickly, so you need to use more coats than the final finish.

Three pieces for the seat and three pieces for the front

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