How To Build A Farmhouse Table – Building and creating with my hands has always been a passion of mine and something I love to share with others. When I saw the plans for the table, I got excited and wanted to create a more detailed video sharing online on how to build a farmhouse table.
I’ve made a few tables over the years, but this one seems to be my favorite because of its bold look. It is made of 4×4, 2×4 and 2×10 lumber. The large beams give this table a bold look and make the table solid like a tank. This farmhouse table construction will give you lots of cookie points with your lady.
How To Build A Farmhouse Table
The original plans for the project are from Anna White’s website, which has hundreds of free plans. I changed the table so that the table is wider and longer. The larger size provides more room to spread out and for centerpieces or centerpieces. This table was a conversation piece and worked great for our parties and meals. This farmhouse table will last for years and be passed down to family members for generations. Whitney from Shanty-2-Chic also has a post about creating this table and collaborated with Ana-White on her project.
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Complete plans can be found on Anna’s website and downloaded in PDF format. Ana White and Whitney of Shanty-2-Chic worked together to create the plans. The project is relatively simple and takes about a day to build + complete.
Modifications: The only modifications I have made to the other designs are the overall size. I used an extra 2×10 to increase the width of the table. I lengthened the table tops a bit and increased the width of the table base. I show the table top modifications in the pictures below. Feel free to modify your table from the plans to suit your needs.
2 1/2 inch kreg screws – you will need 1 box of 6 inch countersunk screws (for joining the 4×4’s together) – you will need 40 or more.
Diy Farmhouse Table: Step By Step, How To Build, Materials List How To Build It
* 6 inch and 4.5 inch screws can sometimes be hard to find. I recommend going to a supply contractor or a local construction/lumber yard. Select Home Depot and Lowes stores drops only.
Materials – See plans here (See my alteration diagrams to see how my table differs from Anna’s plans.)
For this project, you will need to purchase 4×4, 2×10, and 2×4 boards. These boards can be found at your local lumber yard. Take the time to find quality boards that are straight and have little distortion.
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First I made the table top out of 2x10s. I used 5 2×10s for the main body of the table and 2×10s for each end of the board. Anna’s plans call for four main panels, but I wanted to spread out the area a bit more. I used a 12″ miter saw to make all the cuts. I cut 5 boards 69 inches long.
Here is a table top view. A 2×10 board is actually 9 1/4 inches wide. The overall dimensions of the top are 46 1/4 inches x 87 1/2 inches.
Line up all the boards and mark where you want to make the holes for the pockets. I usually space the holes 8 to 10 inches around the pockets.
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Adjust the Kreg jig to 1 1/2 inch setting for material thickness. (My video says 2 1/2 inch setting, but I meant 1 1/2 inch.)
Attach each panel with 2.5-inch Kreg jig screws. It helps to nail the boards together and use a little body weight to flatten the boards.
Also punch two pockets in the corner of each panel. They will be used to connect to the main board.
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Here is a photo of the finished table from above. The overall dimensions of my desk are approximately 46 1/4 inches wide by 87 1/2 inches long.
I had to adjust the width of the base a bit to fit the wide table top. Here is a diagram of the changes I made to Anna’s plans.
I made two ends out of 4×4. I used 6″ long torque bolts (also called star bolts or foot bolts) to connect them (about 3 for each joint). Two vertical boards are cut at an angle of 10 degrees (parallel to each other). The bottom horizontal board is also cut at a 10 degree angle (not parallel).
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Connect the two ends with top and bottom horizontal 4×4 beams. I didn’t have extra ready arms to help, so I used jack clamps to help hold everything in place while I nailed the boards together with 6″ screws. I attached two horizontal 2×4s using 2.5 inch Kreg jig screws.
Attach the base to the top using 4.5″ torque screws through the 4×4 joists. Use 2-inch torque screws to attach the 2×4 to the table top. (I dipped mine a bit)
Cut the two brackets at a 45 degree angle. Attach with 2-3 top and bottom screws 6 cm long. Screw at an angle.
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Look at the completed table before the piece is stained and sealed. I also designed a bench to match this table. You can find the plans by clicking here. I adjusted the width so their total width is 69″. Instead of using 2×10 for the cutting boards, I use 2×8. Everything else remained the same as Anna’s plans. The inside width of my desk bench is 73″ which leaves 2 inches of space on each side of the bench so it slides in and out easily.
The next step is to make the table unique to you. I decided to distress the farmhouse table using tools from around the shop to give the table a weathered look. I used nails to mark the worm and a circular saw blade and hammer to put some marks on the table.
Then I heated the old screws with a blowtorch and made a neat screw mark on one corner of the table top.
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I used a solution of steel wool and white vinegar #00 to patina the wood and give it an aged look. Put a good handful of steel wool in the glass and add white vinegar. Let the vinegar dilute the steel wool for at least 3 to 4 days. The longer you let it sit, the darker the mixture will become. I let mine sit all week. Once diluted, rub the mixture into your piece. Oxidation occurs when the compound reacts with the wood’s tannins to change color. It changed the fir wood to dark blue, gray, brown and black. Do not use white pine as it is not very dark. If you prefer to use a stain, Minwax has some great options to choose from. My favorites are Special Walnut, Dark Walnut, Provincial, Weathered Gray and Golden Oak.
* If the mixture is too strong, you can always dilute it. Pour some of the strong mixture into a new cup and add white vinegar. Wipe the solution on the table with a clean cloth. Use the brush to get into hard-to-reach places.
Allow the solution to soak for about 6 hours and dry. The table will be a little darker depending on how strong your solution is. All boards will carry the stain a little differently and you never know how it will turn out. That’s the fun part!
Diy Farmhouse Kitchen Table
Here’s what my desk looked like the next morning after it was completely dry. It looks a bit dark until polyurethane is applied.
I finished the benches using the same technique. I loved the variations and stripes created by the steel wool and vinegar treatment. I love a rustic finish. However, I know not everyone does this, so a wood conditioner stain may be a better option if you’re looking for a more even and consistent finish. Minwax creates a conditioner for the wood and helps keep the stain more even.
Brush or paint 2-3 thin coats of Minwax Polyurethane. The finish brightens the colors and warms the look of the wood, giving it a honeyed sheen.
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Let the final coat dry, then get some friends to help you carry the table home. This table is heavy, so tempt your friends with pizza and beer.
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How To Build A Diy Farmhouse Table
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