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How To Make A Round Table Top Out Of Wood – Everything you need to know about how to build and stain 2″ x 6″ lumber into a large round wood table top with a circular saw. No fancy cuts or other saws required. Learn how to mix stains and paints to get the right color and distressed finish you want on wood.
You may be wondering why the kitchen needs a new table after I recently painted the surface like the sink.
How To Make A Round Table Top Out Of Wood
I like how the sink ends up, but I wanted a bigger table when we have more than 4 people at the table.
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The table is 46 inches round, and once you set up with plates, there isn’t much room for a centerpiece or serving food.
In the living room of my previous house, we had a plywood table extender that went over the table when we needed to seat more than 6 people. It was a great option.
My kitchen dining area is 8′ x 10′ so I knew a slightly larger counter would work.
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My kitchen dining area is square, so a round table works best. I could use a square, but that would add too many straight lines and be difficult to navigate. A round shape is easy to follow and adds a bit of contrast of shape to all the straight lines on the cabinets and walls.
A round table makes for great conversation and great looks when playing board games and cards with a group.
I prefer a pedestal base on a round table or a base that sits in the center without legs on the edge of the table or kicks your feet up.
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After looking at some new round tables, I really liked the table base on my table and decided it wasn’t the right size for the table top. I like that the base doesn’t take up much visual space and you can see through the base which makes the space feel bigger.
Instructions for making a round wooden table can be made with 2″ x 6″ boards of any diameter. For my instructions, I list the amount of lumber and pocket screws needed to make a 60″ diameter round wood table top. Adjust the amount of lumber and screws needed for the size of countertop you want.
If you don’t have an existing table base like me, one can easily DIY. See the links to the round table making videos I’ve seen for tips on how to make a round wooden table top.
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Video Using a circular saw and a simple DIY jig, I used 2″ x 6″ boards instead. There is no need to add extra thickness to the outer edge of the table as they did.
Makes the initial steps of making the table very simple. If you’ve never heard of this hyped little tool – here’s a video: How to use a Craig R3 Jig System
2. Put on a pair of glasses and rotate the good side of each board with various objects. A hammer, 7-in-1 tool (not shown), metal chain, wood screw, brick, or any sharp or rough-edged object you can find.
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3. Place the chain on a board and hit it a few times with the hammer. Place the wood screw on one side of the board and roll it over the wood in spots, pressing down hard with your feet. Take wood with a deck to make fake wormholes. Repeat this process on all the tiles in a random fashion.
3. Once each board is mature, use a sander with 100 grit sandpaper on the edges of each board. Repeat for each plate.
2. Make marks on each side of each board with arrows pointing in the direction where the pocket holes will be made. Space them about 6″-10″ inches apart. Each board should have an equal number of pocket holes in each direction. This is where you make the pocket holes where the screws go in at an angle to attach the boards to each other.
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Note: Make sure not to put a screw where the table is cut round and that the boards on the outside edge of the table are the same width on each side for symmetry. If you want to be sure, align the tiles together. Find the center point and mark it.
Drilling all the pocket holes is easy, but the process goes faster with two people: one to install the jig on each arrow, and the second to drill the holes in the wood.
2. Align the first board with the second board so that they are flush at the ends and insert a pocket screw into each hole. This will bring the two boards closer to each other. When you put the screws in, make sure that the boards are level with each other.
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3. Repeat this process for each board, making sure the pocket holes and screws are both ways on each board.
4. After fitting each plate, check that the top is even. This can be difficult to control when the tip is large.
2. Find the center point of the table top and mark it. Make your jig so that one end is in the center of the table and the opposite end is the diameter of your table to attach and hold the circular saw.
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3. Move the saw around the table top, several times. Wood will decrease with each pass. The shape will not be round yet, but will eventually become a circle. It’s great to see how this setup works.
4. After completing the rough cuts around the table, repeat the process until the table is round. It took me three times.
2. Sand the surface with 100-grit sandpaper to smooth the top and rough edges of the wood.
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3. If you want a more distressed look, use the edge of a painter’s 7-in-one tool to trim the edge around the table top. Note that some of what you added earlier may be cut off when you cut the top round.
4. When using water-based products on wood, after sanding, clean the sand and spray the surface with water. Let it sit for a few minutes, and wipe off the excess with a clean, lint-free cloth. Wait for the table to dry completely, then sand again with 220 grit sandpaper.
5. Apply a coat of water-based preconditioner. Let it soak into the wood for about 5 minutes, and wipe off the excess.
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I turned my color stain into a glaze so that the stain was more transparent and gave me more time to wipe off the excess and apply more if needed.
To make the colored frosting: I used equal parts of both colors of stain, frosting and water. I mix it well in a plastic bowl and apply it to the table with a 3 inch wide brush.
6. Mix the stain well and apply with a wide brush. Wipe off excess immediately with a clean, lint-free cloth. Do two tiles at a time, quickly wipe off excess overlapping tiles to keep the color even.
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My kitchen and living room are open concept, but the space isn’t huge. I find that when I add too many colors to a room, it looks cluttered.
I find that the trick is to work within a limited color palette so that the space doesn’t feel too busy or look too cluttered. I decided to go with a darker wood than the floor so there would be less contrast.
I wanted to remove as much of the yellow and orange from the wood as possible. I did this by mixing the spots first to get more brownish-grey, but not too dark.
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After coloring, I put a table on the table to see if I liked how it looked. I also placed a reclaimed board on top as it was closest to the final color I wanted.
To add more gray to the stain color, I used acrylic craft paint while it was still wet. It looks like reclaimed board and has no yellow or orange tones.
I applied some paint in random spots with a damp cloth and wiped it with long pressing strokes to get the color into the wood. I used a bit of the two colors as I thought the stain was too orange.
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