How To Make Revolving Chair – If communal table seating isn’t your cup of tea, then this post is for you! I’m sharing how I transformed my boring (but very comfortable) desk chair with a custom cover and some spray paint.
Also, check out the update below where I share what the chair looks like after two years of use.
How To Make Revolving Chair
Last Christmas my in-laws gave us Ken’s dining room chairs. We only have one and it is very damaged.
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I love it because it’s so comfortable (I mean SO), one of the best things I’ve ever owned. My back feels better in this chair!
BUT it’s all dark and leathery and on hot days I feel it and it hurts to stand 😛
So the other day I decided to decorate it with polka dot fabric and give it a coat of primer and paint.
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The main idea is to make the covers easy to take off and wash, as the fabric gets dirty while being worn.
I used velcro for the back and elastic for the seat to remove later.
There are a few sportswear on the couch, so now is the perfect time to give it a little update.
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I’m working in the office in the craft room so I’ll show you all the pieces I’m working on (I have 3 more projects, half done now)
Every chair is different, so I’ll give you some general tips if you want to update your chairs.
For the flaps, I use 4 yards of outdoor cotton canvas (but you need to measure the length of the back and seat, don’t worry about the width) + 1 yard of velcro and about 1/2″ yard. flexible
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First you need to identify the surfaces you are going to paint, in my case I have plastic and metal parts.
So I bought a spray primer specifically for metal and another for plastic so I could cover each surface as well as possible.
You will need to remove your seat using the tool that came with it, in my case this seat is ready to assemble with an Allen wrench.
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I have separated all the parts so that I can read them according to the material. And make the cover for the seat, the back and the armrest.
The armrests are the only parts I haven’t made easy (to clean) covers because I don’t have room for anything else and I don’t have anywhere to go back if I add elastic to the bottom like I do with the seat. before the. to the armrest.
So I staple the fabric so when I need to clean it I have to take the stapler out and go through the process again when it’s clean.
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I put my covering piece for the seat on the wrong side of the fabric so I can shape it (this way you can see the seat closed when it’s done).
I measured 5″ from the top edge of the seat to fold over (this is the elastic edge) (remember the seat faces back).
After that, I made pleats on the sides and glued them well (you can see the seams of the back part in the picture below) and then I sewed on top of the pleats. It improves concentration at the bottom (at the expense of flexibility).
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Once the sides are sewn, you’ll finish shaping the bowl and fitting it to the seat.
Make a 2 inch fold at the top of the cup and sew leaving a small piece open for flexibility. Tie a knot in the elastic and complete the seam for the pleat.
Now you have your seat cover, but if your seat is like mine, you’ll need to drill some small holes in the sides (where the screws go).
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The main difference is that my seat has a fold that separates the back from the bag, which makes the piece more difficult.
So, to avoid sewing the seat cover, I glued a piece of lipilco to the head with Gorilla glue, and then glued the opposite piece to the center of the fabric.
I laid the fabric right side out on the chair, then adjusted the sides and made pleats (like a sreslo)
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I sewed the pleats and also sewed the velcro part at the beginning, again I had a cup shape, but this time I couldn’t use the elastic because it would reveal the back. .
So I put the fabric back over the back, but this time with the wrong side facing out (so I could get the flap inside) and put the second fabric on the back.
ADVICE! Remember, if you fit on the top instead of the bottom, your slide will come out the back easier.
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I joined the two pieces together, trimmed off the excess, then sewed and added a 10″ piece of Velcro centered at the bottom so I could fold the sides and close the seat back cover at the bottom.
Like the seat piece, I had to drill the holes for the screws that go into the arm pieces, zigzagging to avoid scratches during cleaning.
In the photo below, you can see how I folded the sides and attached the two ends (top and bottom) with pieces of velcro.
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I know it’s a pain to remove the handles every time I need to clean the covers, but on the other hand, I’d rather just do it and throw it in the washer than clean them. if they are dirty. .
I played with my curly legs a lot, and even though the little feet scratched the bottom, the paint didn’t scratch.
Also, I’ve added an update with more background images, so scroll down!
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I recommend making covers that can be cleaned at all because spot cleaning is a pain for me – lol.
Ken laughed a little because my seat is now screaming “I’m happy” but you know it’s cool!
I hope Ken will take me up on the offer to upgrade his chair in the future =]
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EDIT to add – September 12, 2013 I refinished this chair almost 2 years ago, still great! I have received many requests, so I have included pictures of the seat, especially the lower part of the seat. These are pictures of the chair a year and a half after I made the cover! I cleaned it several times and the paint on the seat is still perfect =]
Thank you very much for your help in restoring the seat. I have a few questions about the fan mounted seat top. Is it under the padded seat and over and under the seat? I also want to know about skin tags. Did you sew it or fold it after installing the flap? I was going to do a pattern and a lot of work and sewing to cover my chair, but I found your site and I love your results! You make it look so easy! I would love to see a video of you doing this! Thanks again!
I love what you did with the “wonderful” chair, you put the chair together very well and so are the instructions. Thanks for sharing. I get home and am excited/scared to move on! Part of our whole process is creating a beautiful blogger office that I’m really excited about. The only problem is that the office furniture I want costs thousands of dollars…
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Maximizing the budget (and then some) I decided to create my own glam office
That being said, I made this marble table for $30 and this chair for $20. Now John is happy and I have the office of my dreams. Win-win!
I got this used office chair for ten bucks. It’s pretty boring and simple, but it has some basic lines that I like.
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In about an hour, this recycled office chair looks brand new, more comfortable, and gets compliments from everyone who sees it. I think it would go perfectly with my DIY marble and gold table.
To begin, move your chair to a well-ventilated area. I park myself on a flat piece of wood to reach it
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