How To Make Stool Legs

How To Make Stool Legs – In this post, we’ll go over the full details of an industrial style bar stool that was made by our client Dan in Oakdale, Minnesota. Plus, we’ll talk about the fittings Dan used to make this cool patio and give you step-by-step instructions on how to make your own. So, without further ado, let’s get started.

Dan created these bar stools because he wanted some stools to accompany his open kitchen counter and be able to watch TV while eating from the living room. He found our site after researching how to make bar stools with pipe fittings and decided to build his stool with Kee Klamp.

Unlike traditional pipe fittings that attach to the pipe using threaded joints, Kee Klamp fittings slide over the pipe and are held in place by tightening a set screw in the joint (which can be done with an Allen key). This generally makes Kee Klamp fittings easier to use for several reasons.

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So Dan decided to build his project with Kee Klamp and he is very happy with the result.

Finally, to complete the bar stool look, Dan paired the chair with a custom wood seat and back. He then painted the fittings and pipes to complete the look.

Below you’ll find all the supplies you need to build a bar stool like Dan’s. However, feel free to modify the design as you wish. If you don’t want to include the backrest, simply remove the trim, one socket paddle and two 90 degree corner fittings from the list below. For more tube chair and chair ideas, you can also check out this list of ideas.

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61-5 – Flange, 3/4″ 09 x 13.05 $117.45 $10-5 – Single Socket Spade, 3/4″ 01 x 15.74 $15.74 $15-5 – 90° Angle, 3/4″ 02 x 4-15.26 $15.26 , 3/4″ 01 x $31.75 $31.75

As with any project built with Kee Klamp fittings and plumbing, the exact order in which you assemble your project is entirely up to you. There is no right or wrong way to do this. However, we’ve listed what we think is the simplest approach to assembling this bar stool. Follow the step-by-step instructions below to get started.

First, we recommend starting by assembling individual stem legs. Then, once all four legs are complete, you can join them together.

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To assemble the first leg of the chair, you need two edge fittings and a triple socket. Alternatively, you can use a Single Socket Tee adapter instead of a three socket tee. Both can be used in the same way. Generally, a single socket will be used when you want a length of pipe to slide through an open socket. Three Socket Tees are commonly used when you are connecting two separate parts.

In this case, Dan used a T-Three-Socket Tee, but it looks like the legs are the length of the unbroken pipe.

Follow the diagram above to assemble the bar stool legs. Once the fittings are in position, secure them by tightening the set screw on each fitting.

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Repeat this process until all four legs are completed. Be sure to place the three socket paddles at the same height on all four legs. This bracket will be used to connect everything. Also note that one of the legs must also have a Single Socket Tee added to the top of the leg. This will be used to attach the back seat. Don’t forget to add this fitting before adding the edge to the top of this leg.

When all four legs are ready, you can join them together. To do this, you need to use the Four Socket Cross. Follow the diagram above to connect the two legs.

Now you can connect the chair to the bar stool frame. Place the seat on the flange fitting. Each fitting has four countersunk holes for mounting. Use the holes to attach the chair to the frame.

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Finally, you can add the back of the bar stool. This is completely optional. However, the backrest will use two 90 degree angles and a flange fitting. This will connect to the Single Socket Tee that was added earlier to one of the bench legs. Follow the diagram above to assemble the backing.

Now you should have a complete bench like Dan made for his kitchen. If you are having trouble assembling a bar stool or choosing the right equipment, don’t hesitate to contact our team for help. Our project team will assist you in any way they can and even help you develop a custom solution to suit your application. Today I’m going to show you a very easy and quick project on how to make a wooden stool. This bench I made was actually going to be the base for a fully upholstered ottoman, so none of this wood base would be visible in my final design. But if you want to make a beautiful wooden bench, you only need a few changes.

If you are using plywood as a finished finish, you can skip the nails and simply secure the top with wood glue and clamps until the glue dries. Or you can plan ahead and make extra pocket holes in the top stretcher that can be used in this last step to screw the top stretcher to the underside of the plywood.

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The easiest way to turn that rough ottoman frame into a finished wood bench is to add 1″x2″ lumber to the edges of the top plywood to cover the edges and give it a finished look, just like I did on the top and bottom. Console table shelf my new.

But there are many other customizations that can be made. Instead of square legs, you can use legs that are inverted with a block to which the stretcher pieces are attached. You can make the legs higher and use them as a bar stool. You can change the height, width and depth and turn it into a side table. The bottom stretcher can be used to hold pieces of wood or other pieces of plywood to make the bottom shelf.

In fact, the choices are overwhelming. And once you learn the basic process of assembling this simple wooden bench, you can make modifications to make it exactly what you need.

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For the legs I used four 1.5″ x 1.5″ pieces cut into 14.75. I used 1″ x 4″ pieces for the top stretcher. The long sides were cut to 19 inches and the short sides were cut into 14 pieces. inches long. For the smaller stretcher I used 1″ x 2″ lumber cut to the same length as the top stretcher.

I then used my Kreg pocket hole puncher (this is what I had) to drill two pocket holes in the end of each stretcher.

I then applied wood glue to the end of one of the long pieces of stretcher and a support to the legs, making sure that the pieces were top and back (ie the side that lays on the work surface). Using a Kreg right angle clamp to hold it tight, I screwed the parts together. (Crag’s Right Angle Clamp is an absolute must for a project like this. You can find it here.)

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After attaching the long top stretcher to the legs at each end, I repeated this process with the bottom stretcher.

This is how the piece looks on the side that will be facing the outside of the bench (ie the finished side).

Next I attached the long section at the end and added the short stretcher in the same way.

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After attaching the second long side, I glued the short end to the other side of the stretcher.

And finally, I went back and attached three sides and added a short stretcher to the fourth side.

A Kreg pocket foot and a Kreg right-angle press make this project a snap. This project has taken about an hour so far.

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And finally, I cut a piece of 3/4″ plywood to fit the top and attached it with wood glue and 1.5″ by 16″ nails.

Now my bench is ready for foam, batting and fabric. But can you imagine a plywood top cut from 1″ x 2″ lumber, braced at the corners, and then the whole thing trimmed or painted? It can be really good.

Addicted 2 Decorating is where I share my DIY and decorating journey as I renovate and decorate this 1948 dresser that my husband Matt and I bought in 2013. Matt has an M.S. and couldn’t do any physical work so I did most of the housework myself. You can learn more about me here.

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I hope you’ll join me on my DIY and decorating journey! If you want to follow my project and progress, you can

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