How Do I Wire An Outlet – Today I would like to share with you a post about “basic electricity”. This one is simple, but it’s one you specifically asked – how to open the power cord. If you’ve never built an electric before and have been afraid to take the faceplate off and see what’s underneath, I think you’ll be surprised how easy it is.
And since this is the most common one you will find, I will show you how to connect the center of the circuit.
How Do I Wire An Outlet
First, before you do anything to change or exit or the light or anything else electrical, you need to make sure the power is off at the breaker box. If you don’t know how to do this, or don’t know the circuit that feeds your home circuit, or don’t know how to use a circuit tester, DON’T DO IT.
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After turning off the breaker, always be sure to test the circuit with a tester.
As for me, I didn’t do that because no one in the room was able to crack the box. When I walk into the room where my box is, I have five cables from the five machines in my studio hanging in the attic and none of them are near the box. The desire for these broken boxes is the last step. However, to continue…
I already explained this in a previous post, but to refresh your memory, a circuit is a series of outputs and/or switches that receive power from a single switch box.
The circuit I installed last night is this, where the wire comes from the circuit breaker in the breaker box in the guest room, goes down and goes to outlet #1. From there, it goes to #2 and #3 and soon.
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And in this image, I’m going to go out and put the number 2 in the image above. So it receives power from line #1 and sends power to line #3 in a loop.
In the junction box, I have two wires. As I explained earlier, I always label my wires so you can see one that says “power in” (meaning it comes from terminal #1) and the other that says “power out” (meaning it goes to the next terminal. , result # 3).
The first step is to strip the yellow paint off the wire, and I use this tool…
The circuit is designed to remove this switch from the 14/2 and 12/2 wires. My thread is 12/2 so I use a large one.
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I try to cut the wrapper as much as possible into the box, usually leaving about an inch exposed in the box.
And when the yellow hair is removed (wire cutters cut easily and you just pull it), there are six wires that are visible – two black, two white and bare copper.
When working with 12 gauge wire, I use it primarily. They are a bit more expensive than the cheap stuff you can buy from most contract packages, but this saves a lot of time and is very small because under the phone system, they have these little tools…
If you have an outlet that doesn’t have small wires under the phone, then you need to wrap your wires in a clamp or small clip and cover the wires. It’s not too hard when you have 14 threads, but it’s a headache when you have 12 threads.
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So I decided to go with those washers/bolts under the bolts. This allows you to tuck the cord under the board/iron and protect the cord. You don’t need to take the wire and wrap it around the screw. This is easy and saves time!
So back to the box, I cut off the extra wire so that all that was left was four inches of wire coming out of the front of the box. This gives me about 7-8 inches of wire to work with.
This is fiction. It may extend a little more or less than four inches beyond the front of the box. Just remember that if you cut them too much, you become like a river and things will get worse. If you leave them too long, it will be difficult to get all the wires into the box when you are done.
Then I use other threads and use these small areas to separate the individual threads. There are 14 threads and 12 threads. Mine is 12 gauge so that’s what I used.
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You don’t have to think about how much you can strip at the end of the wires. Every seat or switch you buy comes with a scale on the back of the seat or switch (or if there isn’t one, it will be on the package) that will tell you how much you need to remove from the switch. mover or mover.
On one side, you will find silver strings. These are the neutral wires to which the white (neutral) wire goes.
On the other hand, you will find copper wires. These are the terminals where the black (hot) wire will go.
So on the right side, where the copper wires are, I simply slide the ends of the black wires under the cables / clamps and tie the wires to hold the wires.
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Remember how I coded my strings (ie, on, off)? I always put the “power in” label at the top and the “power out” label at the bottom. That way I always know where a particular wire goes and there’s no confusion if I need to go there and do something else in the box later.
Then repeat the process on the other side, with the white thread to the silver thread.
And again, if you don’t buy a socket with small plates / screws under the screw and all you see are wires there, then you need to drill a small hole in the end of the wire and wrap it on the screw. Such pain. 😀
So now I have my black (hot) wires and my white (neutral) wires. That leaves only the ground wire.
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I like to use these pushers, which you can use instead of wire nuts. Because again, working with loose 12 gauge wire makes me want to destroy it, so I found it made the job easier than twisting and drilling the wire.
This connects the ground wire from the wire going into the box and the ground wire from the wire coming out of the box to the other. But you’ll notice that this didn’t output anything because nothing goes on the green line.
That screw doesn’t have a plate/lock, so I usually go ahead and make a screw on the end of the wire like a bolt. But I’ve noticed that this is one small area where my cheap stuff doesn’t come off, where the wires can slip easily and get caught a lot when the cable is attached. There are no details in the written instructions that come with this switch, but I tried pulling the wire tighter and it seems to work that way. Although it seems to work fine, I recommend twisting the end of the cable and wrapping it.
Finally, the output is ready to be pushed into the box. This is probably the most difficult part of the whole process if you are working with 12 gauge. I can tell you that these things don’t just have to be bent and glued together, so it can take a bit of a struggle to get everything in far enough to to fit in the box but be firm but gentle and a little. persevere and he will get there.
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But that’s it! Craving for electricity is very easy! And once everything is connected, you can plug it back in and test it to make sure everything works. easy hard! And of course, you’ll want to add a faceplate to finish the job. I won’t do it now because the dry guys are still tapping and drilling and when they’re done I’ll polish and paint. I will add a face plate when the walls
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