How To Make Pipe Legs For Table – Have you seen industrial-looking furniture in stores and online? I think this is the most beautiful thing to look around!!
It totally reminds me of what I would find in a big, airy New York loft. Have I told you how much I hate NIC? I was lucky enough to live there for a few months after graduating from Purdue (if you can call staying in a hotel “living there”…. 😉) I was helping Marriott open their hotel on Wall Street and I loved it! There is something lively and peaceful about this city! LOL, total contradiction I know!! If you have ever lived there….or visited….I think you live with your head in agreement!
How To Make Pipe Legs For Table
I’ve wanted to make my own industrial furniture ever since I saw the picture above. Seriously….this is awesome. Do not you think? All that metal and wood. Makes me sick!!!
Diy Pipe Leg Table
This pantry renovation blew me away and made me want some galvanized pipes in my home. But how do I know if my pantry will ever look this “put together” and organized! 😉
Please excuse the video taken with my phone a few minutes ago. I really want a huge table for the craft room, but I was seriously nervous about ruining it. I figured why not practice on something that doesn’t use a lot of wood!!? Did we have a pull out table??
Well…….no, but I wanted to do some exercise……and this was the first thing I thought of. Of course, spontaneous, and in this case spontaneity created a winner! I love this chart!!
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The only other pictures of the table I could find online show black pipes running from one end to the other. I didn’t want to, because I wanted to put some big bags under this table for blankets and suitcases like board games and puzzles. I didn’t know where this table would end up. Here is what I came up with as a design for the table legs….
The diagram on the left shows what each support leg will look like, and the one on the right is the bars from one end to the other. I took this to the store to find the tubes I needed. FII: 90% of the fittings I use are “black pipes”. Totally cheaper than galvanized or copper pipes, and if you know me…then you know I spray paint other pipes black. So why not save some money and just buy the black stuff? I bought most of my pipe fittings at Lowes, but I bought the floor flange and 2# nipples at our local Ace Hardware store. More on that later.
Hardware stores can cut and thread the pipes to your specific measurements, but I didn’t want to mess with that and really wanted to work on my design / setup so I could buy everything “off the shelf” with no setup.
X Leg Coffee Table
Wood screws: I needed mine to be 3/4 inch long, since the wood was less than an inch deep.
2 – 74″ x 6″ walnut boards. A friend let me raid her surplus wood from her plank wall project. We can say woo hoo and a big big thank you to Chris!!!
I consider myself lucky that I was able to do this using standard off the shelf products….and, if you were at Middletown Love’s on a Friday night, you’d find me building the entire table. Art
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I was able to get everything I needed, but that night the earth fell. I wasn’t about to pay $10.59 per flange. Uh Uh! It only came as galvanized pipe, not black pipe, and cost three times as much. A sales associate saw this product online and advised me to go to my local True Value or Ace Hardware. If I were to save about $30, I would definitely go elsewhere for the floor flange.
I couldn’t wait to start it the next morning and figured I could finish it before I went to the hockey game that afternoon.
If you want to bring an industrial look to your home, I suggest giving all the pipe joints a good bath with dish soap, TSP and maybe some SOS pads. There were many stickers, tapes, and many rifles on the barrels; Some have very sharp small pieces (like thorns or fungus) that suggest the use of protective gloves and eye wear. Again, do as I say….not as I do!!
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Following my generic drawing, I repeated the process I did on the warehouse floor and assembled one side of the table legs from the bottom up, excluding the tube caps (legs).
Once one side was finished, I screwed on the 30″ support pipe, then the middle T-bar, and another 30″ pipe. At this point you can end up one of two ways; 1) connect the other side starting in the middle and attach another T bar, then nipples on each side, finally attach more T bars before adding the 24″ inch posts and 6″ nipples to support the table top….or 2) fully assemble the other side Do this and then have a friend or family member help you on the other side while you attach the legs to what I have already built
I chose option #1 because I wasn’t sure anyone would wake up while I was finishing it. I also thought it would be a bit easier than trying to get it “just so” into the bar by moving the awkward and slightly heavy piece, twisting it to tighten it.
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But as I always say…..what works best for me, may not be the best way for you!!
One thing I didn’t believe was that even though you can get it very tight, you won’t be able to get it all the way tight to hide all the threads. No problem…and change the dimensions of your finished product! Laugh your heart out!!
I didn’t realize this until I put my finished wood on the top flange to dry on the layup. Ouch!
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Maybe I should clarify and say that a big strong person with incredible strength should be able to fully tighten it….or someone with a nifty specialty tool (maybe I should check if such a tool exists), but how little wet. i …. that’s something. It wasn’t happening!
It was back to Ace to see if the 2” nipples were for me. They only had 2 in stock in the black barrel so I had to bite the bullet and buy the galvanized ones for the other two. Fortunately, the difference was only $0.50.
BTV- I love the convenience of having Ace literally a mile and a half from my house, but for items like this they are very limited in their variety/style of merchandise and don’t have much time in the quantity of each!! This required me to mix my products into a 2” nipple and floor flange. Good thing I always have black spray paint on hand. 😉
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I lowered the wooden side and raised the base of the pipe to join the two. Let me explain, it helped me change my base. There’s no way I’m taking that beast down by myself! 😉 I used 3/4″ wood screws to attach the 5 floor flanges to the face and then screw them back together. So all set…….
……..legs! I think these metal caps are much nicer than using extra floor flanges. A little softer than heavy flanges. If this table stays in the basement, I won’t be adding any felt pads, as we have carpet in there. But if I can somehow remove our furniture in our family room so it doesn’t look so cluttered, I’m definitely going to add rings to the bottom and put it back in the family room!
I was lazy in my measurements; The height, width, and depth were perfect for the family room, but our bed in the basement isn’t that tall, so the table is a little tall for this space. If we put it here, I have to change the 6 inch nipples to 4 inch ones. Good thing I have some left over from my “wrong” width! 😉
Inch Industrial Pipe Furniture Legs For Diy Coffee Table Legs
* I plan to use more industrial pipes in our house (in small doses) …… I
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