How To Make Your Own Poker Table – Create a DIY poker table companion for dining and entertaining that also doubles as a dining table with lid.
3 of 5 Perfect joint seal and mating parts each part needs to be scratched to fit.
How To Make Your Own Poker Table
Poker night is a great time to meet up with friends and show off a good hand. To set up an impressive table that’s guaranteed to make them take their bets—or bluffs—seriously, follow our free card table plans to build a table with insets for playing fields, gambling chips, and drinkers. Do it. When the game is over, simply attach the lid on top to turn it into a weeknight dining table.
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On the bottom of the table, measure and mark the sides 14 inches from each corner. Using a straightedge, draw a line to connect the two marks at each corner.
Using a circular ruler, cut a line to cut off the corner of the table and form an octagon. Place the ½ inch plywood for the cover on your work surface with the best side facing down. put the table on the hood; Place it in such a way that the uncut side is towards the corner of the cover. Draw the outline of the table on the lid. Remove the table, place a ¾-inch-thick board behind each marked line, and trace another set of lines. This outer ring represents the hood size needed to cover the table after the 1×4 apron is installed. Using a circular saw, cut just outside the outer ring; Leave a line to make the bottom slightly larger than the table.
Lay a 1×2 flat lengthwise with the edges together on the game board. Mark the side length on the 1×2 side. Measure the area at a 22½-degree angle against the angle so that the length of the side is equal to the length of the edge of the table. Press the piece into place on the table. Mark the frequency of the remaining part. To keep the 1×2 pieces lined up, count each edge of the table and the bottom of the corresponding piece.
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Apply glue to the bottom and ends of the 1x2s. Using a pneumatic nail gun and 1-inch nails, nail the bottom of the table and each section to hold it in place.
Cut the ends of each ½x6 at a 22½-degree angle. Use a joining square to mark the center by drawing a line at a 45-degree angle from the straight cut end corner of each section.
Using two clamps, fasten the beach fence to the rafter fence. Fill in the hole that appears at the intersection of the two points of 45. Use 150-grit sandpaper to smooth the inside edges of the round cut. Repeat to make a total of eight drains.
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Place pegs in the side panels of the 1×2 on the game table so that the corners end up with a miter joint and they all face the same direction. Nail it to the underside of the table using 1-inch nails. Hold the nail gun at a slight angle to prevent any part of the nail from sticking out of the nail.
Lay a length of 1×2 flat on the table in the ring of the middle block so that the edge of the 1×2 rests over the edge of the block. Mark the distance between the two right angles. Miter the front end of the 1×2 to a 22½-degree angle. Hold the piece in place, and mark the rest of the piece until all of the inner ring is shaped. Apply glue to the bottom and end of each piece, lay them in place, and nail them to the underside of the table to lock them in place. To help keep the nail gun under the table, cut a piece of 1×2 the distance from the inner ring to the edge of the table and nail another block evenly spaced to make a T-shaped space. Run the tee to the side. With the stick under the table, and the nail gun on the last stick.
Cut a ¼-inch gap from the scrap using a pair of scissors, and place it on top of the outer ring of 1x2s. Place a 1×4 on the edge of the table with the top flat side up with spacers to create a ¼ inch lip. Mark the corner of the table on the top of the 1×3. Using a miter saw, bend the ends of each section at a 22½-degree angle. Attach the pieces to the edge of the table using wood glue and 1¼-inch nails.
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Measure the length and width of the center of the opening, and subtract ⅛ inch from each measurement to account for comfort. Cut the top of the MDF toy to this size. Place the cut edge in the center of the opening. Mark the ring connections to the 1x2s on the square. Join the marks on the two sides of each corner to make a smaller octagon. Using a circular saw, cut the corners off the square. Label the appropriate parts of the playing field and table. That way, once you’ve wrapped the fabric around the square, you’ll know which side is the right side.
Seal the underside of the felt and the top of the playing field with spray adhesive. Let the glue dry until it no longer feels tacky. Set the square upside down on the center of the fabric. Fold the fabric over on one side and secure with a pin. Play the felt to one side, and fold the excess into a gift roll. Once all the edges have been pulled up and the masking tape is attached cut off the excess with utility scissors and set the playing field aside.
Cut two 1×4 boards to the width of the top of the new post. Cut the remaining two 1×4 boards to 1½ inches wide. Apply glue to the ends of the pieces, and place them between the longer pieces to make a box. Drive a 1¼-inch nail through the long piece through the end of the short piece to clamp it in place. Fill the collar attached to the bottom of the table, and mark its inner and outer perimeters.
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Remove the collars and drill three ⅛-inch pilot holes through the table on each side between the perimeter lines.
Apply glue to the top edge of the collar, and place it under the table, re-aligning it with the previous mark. Let the glue dry until it holds the collar in place — or nail around the edge to hold it in place — and turn the table over. Using a countersink bit, prepare a pilot hole and drive a 2-inch screw through the plywood to the top edge of the collar.
To fit the new tobacco stick about halfway between the table and the floor, cut off the top and bottom of the stick. First mark a 29 inch cut line all the way around the house. Place the post on the measuring tape, and cut to size. If your miter saw can’t cut the full thickness of the post, trim it a bit, then roll the post in the opposite direction to complete the cut. Repeat to cut the second row.
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Place the short face of the corbel on the post, pulling the bottom edge up. Use a straight line to mark the registration line on the bottom of the post and corbel. Apply wood glue to the corbel, then screw it back into place. Using a pneumatic nail gun, drive 1¼-inch nails through the edge of the corbel to help hold it in place. Using a suitable drill/driver and ⅝-inch paddle bit, drill a 1-inch-deep hole through the base of the corbel and drill into place. Move the drill/driver up at a right angle to remove the hole and make room for the screw head. Repeat to make a second countersink hole next to the first.
Drive a 6-inch wood screw through the countersink hole in the new corbel and post. Repeat Steps 15 and 16 of our free card table plan to secure all the corbels on each new face at once.
Slide the top of the stand into the collar attached to the bottom of the table. Drive a 2-inch screw on each side of the collar and into the post.
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Mark the length of the nose and cove molding along the edge of the plywood cover. Bend the ends of each section at a 22½ degree angle. Apply glue to the back and ends of each pattern piece and to the sides of the lid. Attach the molding to the cover by carefully driving a 1-inch nail through the molding and into the side of the cover and pulling it down.
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