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Good design is less than selective theft. This workbench is a good example of that. Combining the functions of various historical forms, from Robbery to Workmate, becomes a new form, fit to be the centerpiece of modern carpentry.
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I have never seen a table that I am completely satisfied with. I have love/hate relationships with many similarities. I love tool trays, but I hate the way chips and other debris build up in them.
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I want to be able to clamp the work quickly, but speed means nothing if the clamp isn’t firm and secure. Good design is also the art of compromise, finding the happy medium between the extremes.
This bank started with the idea of building a replica of the British Nicholson Bank. Nicholson was very popular in colonial America, and variations of it appeared in woodworking books until the 1920s. Nicholson’s distinguishing feature was the wide front fender, which allowed the work to be attached to the front of the house, on benches and in the superior .
The disadvantage of an extended apron is that it limits the ability to squeeze the bench top from the edge. I cringed and lowered my apron so I could cut work to the bench in either direction. I was also mesmerized by the carved wood on some of Nicholson’s historic benches. Although I don’t plan on moving my bench often, I decided to break it down into manageable pieces to make it easy to make and put together.
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The design is based on the function of the finished bench, as well as the process of manufacturing, moving and maintaining it. The tools I used to make it were basic shop equipment at home: a 10″ hybrid table saw, a 6″ coupler, and a 12″ lunch box planer. And I didn’t need a bench to set up the band. first seat, then place one of the two horses.
The disposable paint roller will quickly cover an even layer of gold glue. Apply glue to one side of the laminate only. Making both sides waste time and glue.
The best reason to assemble the front bench top is that once it’s done, you can get to work on fabricating and assembling all the other parts. It’s almost as good as having a seat when you’re building half a chair.
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I started with 8/4 raw ash, and took the correct pieces from my inventory to use for the top. After running an edge through the joint, I ripped each piece to a raw width of 3¼. “Then I smoothed one side of each piece over the joint. When all 14 pieces were done, I switched to the planer.
I want the workpiece to be at least 1 7⁄8 inches thick, but stop milling when you have two clean sides. Each half of the top is made up of six pieces that are glued together and making the pieces as thick as possible helps me get the maximum width. If the inventory is lower than expected, I will add a seventh piece. The goal is for the top halves to be at least 11 ½ inches wide, but less than 12 inches wide.
The length of the bench is also variable. I wanted the minimum length to be 84′, but I was able to get an obvious length of 90″ from the 8′ raw. After milling all the pieces, I let them sit for a weekend to make sure the wood didn’t move or warp.
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I started putting the top panels together in pairs that were glued face to face. To keep them flat, I put them together on the strongest, straightest surface available: an I-beam made of ¾” thick plywood. I let each pair sit in the clamps for at least four hours and let them all sit for 24 hours to let the glue dry.
This bench is designed around pre-existing machinery. After cleaning one surface with a hand planer, the opposite surface is planed on a hand planer.
I pass the edges of each glued pair over the join to get a straight, square edge on each roll. Then I ran the edge boards through the planer. Again I stop when I have two clean surfaces instead of bringing the boards to a specific thickness.
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The removed pairs are slightly thicker than the 3 inches I planned, but I still need to remove some material after gluing each top piece. The amount that needs to be removed will depend on how well these parts fit.
I put two long boards between my horses and put square boards on them, spaced a foot apart. This gives me a nice flat surface to work on and gives me the ability to reach, over or under the tops while applying the clamps. A test stack of three pairs of boards gave me the confidence to glue the top halves together one at a time.
With almost all of the tent clips standing up, I applied yellow glue to one side of two of the pieces with a 3 inch wide paint roller. With an even coat of glue, I turned the pieces 90˚ and began tightening the clamps, working from the center outwards.
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Cutting top halves to final length is within reach with this 12-inch sliding miter saw.
Wood thumbscrews at the ends of the glued joints prevent the parts from shifting. I removed the squeezed out glue with a damp cloth and scraper and left the patches on the clip overnight.
Since I carefully braked the pieces before gluing and taped them carefully to a flat surface, the tops come out of the clamp in good shape. I knocked down the high spots with a hand planer to get a flat surface and ran the blended vertices through a mobile thickness planer.
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By leaving the top half less than 12 inches wide, I was able to use this little machine for surface finishing. At some point in the future I may need to redo the top and a mini planer will always be an option. This strategy also allows me to cut each top half lengthwise with my scroll saw.
Bench carpentry has a different scale than furniture carpentry. Parts are larger and place more emphasis on function and power than looks. The legs are two pieces glued together face to face, and each pair of legs is joined by an upper and lower stretcher using tenon and tenon joints.
After placing the dowel positions on the stretcher, the lines are transferred to mark the corresponding holes on the insides of the legs.
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The legs and stretcher are assembled into blocks, the ends of which are connected by rails that run along the bench. The large scale of the parts allows joints for drop joints to be located on the outer half of the leg, and these joints are cut before the pins are joined.
On furniture, I use studs for show, but on this bench I used them to make life easier. The mortises are cut only on the inner half of each leg. After arranging the gaskets, I removed most of the drill residue with a ¾” diameter Forstner bit.
While working on my new bench on the horse, I used a chisel to square the design line cuts. I then cut the lashes to fit the lashes. I cut most of the shoulders by hand, but also cut some on a table saw for technical comparison. Hand cut shoulders are a little nicer and don’t take long to make. After cutting the shoulders, I removed the excess around the tenon on the table saw, using the bevel protractor to guide the boards into a stacked die.
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A little chisel cleans the cuts of the top and bottom composition lines. Extending the sides provides an easier fit and stronger joints with the addition of shims.
With the shoulder plane and the pad, I adjusted the tightness of the joints. After honing a pair to a perfect fit, I realized that I could reduce the width of the tenon, widen the outside of the cut with a quick chisel, and then secure the joints from the outside with shims.
This saves time and strengthens the joints. With wedge pins, they cannot be removed from the pin. After letting the glue dry, I cut the wedges with an angle saw, followed by the block plane.
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I find that hand cutting the shoulder is faster and avoids the need to set up the machine. Just cut to the lines.
It’s easy to think of joints as decorative joints, but there are many practical reasons to use this coupler to hold bench ends together. Most of the loading on the bench in use is end-to-end and wedge
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