How To Make A Metal Chair Comfortable

How To Make A Metal Chair Comfortable – This project is really simple as it consists of two wooden rectangles connected by a seat and back made of woven paracord.

I’m assuming that anyone doing this project has basic woodworking skills and is familiar with power tools, so this won’t be a woodworking class. :o)

How To Make A Metal Chair Comfortable

I’ll offer some ideas that can be tweaked, but not a complete plan… please feel free to experiment and play around… but don’t lock yourself into a rigid vision of only one way It is there to do. :o)

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First, cut the base piece with a table saw and a miter saw. The first picture shows how to arrange your seat. Change the dimensions as desired.

Important tip: You want to use hardwoods that are on the harder end of the spectrum, such as oak, walnut, hemlock, etc. Birch, fir, ash, etc. are very difficult to maintain.

I ripped two boards from the table saw @ 1.5″ from which I cut two 41″ boards and two 16 7/8″ boards. From what was left, I cut two 7/8″ boards. I taped one end of each with a 30 degree miter to one of the 16 7/8″ seat support boards (see photos two and three below). I then tore a 1 1/4 inch strip from the remaining edge of the table. Yeah. I then cut two 27″ pieces in the saw. S I then cut them to 2″ wide and saw two 13 5/16″ pieces and a third 15 3/8″ piece. Ignore the short pieces of film labeled “SSB”.

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Then you attach the front seat support. Take a 16 7/8″ seat post and two miter blocks and glue them together to match the front seat support shown in pictures two and three below. This creates a table 3 inches wide, 1 1 wide at the end. / 2 inches wide in the middle, leaving room for the chair to rest when you are in the chair.

Optional: I used a 3/8 round nose bit to drill a groove on the outside edge of the long board where the paracord will fit and protect from wear…and I think it looks “done”. , but it is not necessary.

Optional: You can sand the end of the long side of the sanding disc for a more finished look.

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Next, cut the long edges of all your edges with a 1/4″ miter saw. If you want to replicate the front edge detail I used on my chair (see photo 5 below), we need to save some routing. Until the frame is created.

Mark and drill 1/4″ holes for your paracord to pass through. I spaced the holes in my spine 2 3/8″ vertically and 2 1/2″ horizontally. They weigh more… 1 5/8 inches each way.

Optional: I used a drill press and drilled the holes at a 45 degree angle to get the paracord as close to the top of the frame as possible. The other end of the hole (at the outer edge of the structure) exits through the middle of the cut tracks. If you don’t feel comfortable doing it…you don’t have to. :o)

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At this time, the front seat supports must be properly positioned. Remove the clamp and use the table saw to place a 10 degree strip across the top of the blocks to copy as shown in image #6 below. Also place a 10 degree bevel at the bottom of the 16 7/8″ seat back as in #6 below.

Well, with the boards cut, the front seat post glued and glued, and the side panels cut, you’re ready to start assembling the frame. Two 41, 15 3/8″ and two 16 7/8″ boards make up the seat back, while two 27″ boards and two 13 5/16″ boards make up the seat frame.

You’ll want to mark the end of a long piece of wood where the screws will fit to hold the frame together, then drill (1/8″ bit) and drill the holes. Use 24″ clamps to hold them in place. Position when turning the screw holes. Go ahead and repair the existing dry system. After everything is attached, glue one corner, remove the screws, gently tap the glue to get the glue in, and put the screws in place. You can skip this technique with seat covers…just take off a glove, put it back on, and put it back on. After everything dries together, it’s faster and easier to attach the frames.

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A little note about the position of my seatbacks: the bottom of the front seatback is attached 1 5/8″ from the bottom of the upright, and the bottom of the front seatback is attached 6 1/16″ each. Direct lacks lateral support These are not hard and fast rules, but guidelines that have worked for me.

Once your image is attached, you can proceed to sanding, painting and polishing and you’re ready for the next step (after it dries, of course. :o)

First, I cut the 1″ string above the back seat support (see photos #1 and #2 below) and about 6″ on the back of the seat (after the initial oak drilling!). I then took a pencil sharpener and pushed the fabric through the seat frame to match the gap between the holes in the end of the frame…that’s all it takes from a seat. Be sure to wrap the fabric according to the shape to increase the friction force and don’t forget to open the ends of the fabric well so they don’t move… and make sure the screws are tight. Make sure the tape is tight, as you will be attaching the diagonal to the seat edge. Seatback straps work to prevent the tail from contacting the seatback by providing a “soft strip” that the paracord passes through before entering the holes in the seatback. Picture #3 below is a more detailed view of these sites, the picture is of the seat on the right.

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I started weaving vertically, then horizontally with the paracord…then diagonally with the other. Start by calculating the amount of paracord you will need for your chair… you can divide it horizontally and vertically on the diagonal. The shorter your piece, the fewer lines you need to create. On my chair it took about 35 minutes of rope to make horizontal plus vertical and another 30 minutes to make horizontal.

I started by pulling the end of the paracord through the hole near the corner, tied two knots so it wouldn’t stretch, and then zigzag through the vertical hole and then the horizontal hole. When you start weaving the perpendicular strands, weave the existing strands in and out alternately like a tennis racket. Be creative when it comes to diagonals, but be consistent with your model.

Important note: When weaving, be sure to stretch the rope as much as possible. Do not start another path until you are satisfied that you have tightened it to your liking.

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It doesn’t matter how you move from one path to another, or even how you connect things together…use your creativity, sense of beauty, and imagination.

Now you can drill four 1/8″ holes (two holes along the vertical side) to secure the shock wire. The picture below shows the purpose of the elastic cord, which is to hold the chair frame behind the string. Chair while walking or standing. I drilled a hole 10″ and 27″ from the top of the side, passed the impact wire and tied a simple figure eight knot to turn it.

Place the rubber feet on the screws: These feet are like limit stops and you want to place them in a position that shows the maximum limit of the adjustment. Simply position your seat and move the seat frame back and forth to find the optimal adjustment range for your comfort. Two rubber feet on your seat at the top of the seat rail centered 3 3/4″ from the back of the frame and bottom 12 1/2″ from the frame. I put the back of the frame. Figures 1 and 2 below should make this point clear.

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And finally, you can add your favorite pillow. I just took a piece of foam and wrapped it in fabric and used a piece of paracord.

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