How To Build A Table

How To Build A Table – Making and creating with my hands is my passion and something I love to share with others. Once I stumbled upon the plan for the table. I was excited and wanted to create the most in-depth video on the internet to share how to build a garden table.

I’ve built a few tables over the past few years. But this desk seems to be one of my favorites because it looks great. Made of 4×4, 2×4, and 2×10 boards, the massive beams give this table an aggressive look. And make the table stand out like a tank. This garden table will make your daughter a brownie number.

The basic plans for the project came from Anna White’s website, which has hundreds of free plans. I modified the table by extending and lengthening the table. The large size provides a wide area for placing food or placing things in between. This table is a conversation piece and very useful for our dinners and lunches. This garden table is many years old and will be passed down for generations of family members Whitney of Shanty-2-Chick has a post about building this table yet. And he collaborated with Anna-White on his project.

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All plans can be found on Ana’s website and are available as downloadable PDFs. Anna White and Whitney of Shanty-2-Chic Collaborate on Planning The project is pretty simple and takes about a day to install + time to complete.

Modifications: The only change I made to Anna’s plan was the overall size. I used an extra 2×10 to increase the width of the table. I cut some of the table top wood and increased the width of the table base. I am showing the table update in below image. Feel free to change your schedule to the one that best suits your needs.

2 1/2″ Craig screws – 1 box 6″ torque screws (for holding the 4×4 together) – about 40 more needed

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* Sometimes 6″ and 4.5″ screws can be hard to find. I recommend going to a supply contract or a home/wood store Only Home Depot and Lowes stores do

Furniture – See the plan here (see my conversion diagram to see how my table differs from the plan to bring it in).

For this project you will need to buy 4×4, 2×10 and 2×4 boards. These boards can be found at your lumber yard. Take your time to find a board that is good, straight and has less grain.

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First I made the top panel out of 2x10s. I used 5 2x10s for the main body of the table and 2x10s for each breadboard edge. Four main boards are required for Anna’s plan. But I want to make the place a little bigger. I used a 12″ circular saw to make all the cuts. I cut 5 planks to 69″ lengths.

Here’s what the table top looks like. A 2×10 board is 9 1/4 inches wide. The overall dimensions of the top are 46 1/4 inches x 87 1/2 inches.

Line up all the boards and mark where you want to drill the pocket holes. I usually leave the pockets about 8 to 10 inches apart.

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Set the Kreg jig to the 1 1/2 inch setting for stock thickness. (My video says 2 1/2 inch setup, but I say 1 1/2 inch.)

You secure each board using 2.5-inch long Craig jig screws It helps hold the boards together and uses your body weight to keep the boards parallel

Drill two pocket holes in the end of each board. This will be used to connect the main board to the breadboard.

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Here is a picture of the finished table from above. The overall dimensions of my table are about 46 1/4 inches wide by 87 1/2 inches long.

I had to change the width of the base slightly to match the width of the table top. Here is a picture of the changes I made to Anna’s plan.

I made both ends out of 4×4. To connect the boards (about 3 for each connection) I used 6″ long torque screws (also known as star screws or dowel screws). The two vertical boards are cut at 10 degree angles (simultaneously), the lower horizontal board at 10 degrees. are cut (unevenly) at the mark.

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Connect the ends to the top and bottom 4×4 beams. I didn’t have a spare hand to help, so I used jack clamps to help hold everything in place while fastening the boards together. With 6″ torque screws, I attached two 2×4 beams using 2.5-inch Craig jig screws.

Secure the base to the top using 4.5″ torque screws to the 4×4 frame. Use 2-inch machined screws to connect the 2×4 to the table top. (I’m drooling over my toddler)

Cut two pins at a 45 degree angle. Install using 2 to 3 screws 6″ long on top and bottom. Press code inside.

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This is a look at the complete table before the parts are marked and sealed. I also made a chair that goes with this table. The plan can be viewed by clicking here. I changed the width so that it is 69 inches wide. Instead of a 2×10 breadboard, I used a 2×8. Everything else was as planned. The 73-inch table has two seats on the inner edge. Each side of the seat moves slightly to slide in and out easily.

The next step is to make the tables unique to you. I decided to deface the garden table using some tools at the shop to make it look worn. I used nails to mark the worms and used a saw blade and hammer to hammer the surface into the table.

I then heated the old iron with a torch and marked the tenon in one corner of the table top.

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I used #00 steel wool and white vinegar to stain the wood and give it an aged look. Place a handful of steel wool in a jar and add distilled white vinegar. Leave the vinegar in the steel wool for at least 3 to 4 days. The longer the mixture sits, the darker it will be. I let mine sit for a week. Once mixed, brush the mixture onto your piece. Oxidation occurs when the mixture reacts with the wood’s tannins to cause a color change. Fi trees turn dark blue, gray, brown and black. Do not use white pine as it is not very dark. If you want to use a minwax stain, there are some good options to choose from Some of my favorites are Special Clock, Dark Clock, District, Weathered Gray and Golden Oak

* You can always stir if your ingredients are too strong. Just pour flour into a new bowl and add vinegar. Wipe the table solution with a clean cloth. Use brushes for hard to reach areas.

Let the solution soak for about 6 hours and dry. The grid will darken slightly depending on the strength of the solution. The board will remove all the stains and you won’t know how it will happen. That’s the fun part!

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This is what my table looked like the next morning when it was completely dry. Polyurethane looks smooth until applied.

I finished my used seat the same way. I love car swaps made of steel wool and vinegar. I love the matte finish, however, I know not everyone does. And staining with wood stain can be a good choice. If you’re looking for a consistent and permanent stain, MinWax creates a binder in the wood and helps spread the stain.

Wipe or brush on 2 to 3 thin coats of MinWax Polyurethane. The surface will be light and warm for a honeyed glow.

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Let the last coat dry and have a friend help you carry the table home. This table is hard to tempt your friends with pizza and beer.

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