How To Make A Sliding Table – A table saw sled (or crosscut sled) makes sawing wood away from the grain much safer and much easier. There are many technical ways to make a table saw, but sometimes you need a simple and elegant solution to the problem. This is the simplest cross sled you can make and still achieve an accurate cut.
Crosscut saws (if you didn’t know) are used on a table saw to cut through the grain of wood, or to cut very small pieces without fear of cutting your fingers. Cross cutting (or miter cutting) is a topic covered in this free table saw class that will take you from zero to hero as you become a table saw pro.
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This cross-cut sled can be made by scraping, and only three cuts are necessary for accuracy, the rest can be struck with reckless abandon, and the tree is made by perpendicular cuts. At the end of the Instructable we will use the 5-cut method to test the accuracy of the slot after it is built.
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This table saw uses screw wood that relies on multiple precision cuts and a very straight piece of wood. Here’s what you need to make your own:
Calipers are essential to get an accurate measurement of the miter gauge of a table saw. You will also need a solid triangle to line up the sled fence with the mouth, which will determine if your cuts are square.
Make sure your table saw is calibrated before you make any cuts, or all your cuts will be off. Table saw calibration is covered extensively in the table saw class.
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Almost all table saws come in a standard size of 0.75″ wide x 0.375″ deep. It is best to check the dimensions of the miter rail before making any cuts.
Digital calipers have 4 measuring points: external dimensions (large jaws that go outside the object to be measured), internal dimensions (smaller jaws that enter the object to be measured – located above the larger jaws), depth gauge (probe). which extends at the end) and external depth gauge (front caliper hammer and drive side internal jaw – example).
Use the inside gauge to check the width of the miter track, then use the depth gauge to see the depth of the track.
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Place the table saw fence on the width of the path and make the cut directly in the scrap wood. Then put the fence to a meter depth and run the cut hardwood again.
We use solid wood such as oak, because it is a very dense and durable wood that is not prone to warping. Using this as a track will allow the sled to slide smoothly and not stick to the miter track.
It is a good idea to clean the surface of the table saw and any sawdust or debris before checking the cut. If you ignore this step, you won’t get an accurate estimate of whether your cut will fit the track perfectly.
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Place the rigid cut on the miter rail to check the fit. Try pushing the hardboard along the track and see if it falls somewhere, then try pushing the hardboard sideways on the track to see how much sag or play there is.
You are looking for a comfortable fit, no play and a smooth glide. If you get stuck somewhere, check the track to make sure there is no debris, then try sanding sections of wood to get a good fit. If all else fails, you can always re-measure and copy another piece of wood until you get the right fit.
By cutting the trunk we can make the bottom of the trench. The greatest thing about this style of sled is that the base of your sled doesn’t have to be perfectly square.
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I used a piece of ¼” plywood that had very rough edges, perfect for this application!
This plywood base will sit on top of the rail and be the bottom of the trench. Since this is just a platform and no measurements are taken, it doesn’t need to be anything other than a flat surface that we can cut.
Apply a small bead of glue along the length of the hardwood, being careful not to apply too much or accidentally spill glue onto the table saw. You will only need a small amount of glue as we will add screws later to secure the wood to the plywood.
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After you have applied the glue, place the plywood on top of the wooden track, align the plywood so that it is roughly square to the track and the center of the plywood is in line with the saw blade
After the glue has dried, peel the glue assembly from the miter rail and flip the plywood over.
Drill pilot holes along the length of the wood and countersink each drilled hole. Hand screws into each opening to mechanically attach to plywood. The combination of glue and screw ensures a secure fit between the two parts.
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It is important to countersink the holes so that the screw heads are flush with the surface of the wooden track, so as not to interfere with movement when the sled is on the track.
The front of the sled (the part farthest from you when the sled is in operation) does not require precision because its only job is to hold the frame of the sled after you cut the plywood for the support.
I used scrap that was glued to the front of the plywood, just make sure that the scrap was reasonably square, so that the surface would adhere well to the plywood.
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Before we attach the back of the slot, which must be a square cut, we must make a reference cut. The back cut should be perpendicular to the saw blade and perfectly square to make accurate cuts.
With the saw off, remove the insert and remove the blade, then place the insert on the blade and lower the blade to the table. We will slide the sheet through the plywood backing to make a reference cut to line up the back fence.
Place the slat on the miter rail and place the plywood directly on the lowered sheet. Turn on the saw and slowly raise the blade until it is about 1 inch higher than the surface of your plywood base, supporting the plywood with your other hand (away from the blade) as needed to prevent the plywood from sliding along the cutting
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The kerf is the material that is removed during the cut and is equal to the thickness of the blade, this is described in more detail in the table saw class.
The back fence of the ditch is the only piece of wood that needs to be right for this ditch. This back stitch will be where you line up the wood for cutting on the saw blade, so it should be square and perpendicular to the blade.
Use three squares to make sure your wood selection is completely square and straight. Like the front fence, the back fence must be wooden as long as the ditch is wide.
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With the saw turned off and the blade extended over the plywood, place the triangular blade against the blade. Note that the teeth of the saw are slightly wider than the face of the saw, so make sure that your three squares miss the teeth and sit against the blade.
With the triangular piece next to the sheet, line up the square back fence with the perpendicular arm of the three squares, so that it is at 90 ° to the sheet.
Apply a small bead of glue to the back piece and attach it to the plywood. This is the most critical part of the entire slot, as misalignment here will cause any cuts made on the slot to skew. Take the time to make sure the back stitch is completely perpendicular to the saw blade.
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When youare happy with the back stitch aligned perpendicular to the saw, allow the glue to dry overnight before moving.
As with the hard track, once the glue is dry you can turn the sled over and drill and countersink holes to attach the rear fender with screws.
With the back fence attached, raise the sheet about ½” higher than the surface of the plywood and drive the sled all the way in. Your sled is functionally complete!
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To test the accuracy of the slot, we will use the 5-cut method, cut a piece of scrap 5 times, rotate after each cut to see the deviation from the perpendicular.
By making multiple subsequent cuts on the same piece of wood, the resulting fifth cut will increase the error and show us our deviation.
Start with a rectangular piece of wood and press 1-4 counterclockwise on each side. This scrap doesn’t have to be square to begin with, the 5 cut method can handle any shape of scrap.
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Place side 4 against rear fence and line side marked with saw blade 1, move sled forward
