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An exploration of integration and action combined with the latest creation, the Black Bee Pro Tudor is changing the course of the Black Bay and I’m ready for it.
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Look, I know I’m not good at predicting what watch companies will release, but this should be cake. Yesterday, while the world of watch enthusiasts anxiously stared at the animated countdown timer on Tudor’s website, I tried to figure out what a “BlackB Pro” was. I had heard the name born of the whiskey-soaked clouds that danced among the noisy streets of Genoa, only a few hours before, I had no idea what it was.
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Well, here it is, in metal. The 39mm Pamphlet GMT has been massaged with a recognizable look to fit into the overall range of the convertible Black B line. If you know my taste in GMTs, Tudors, and the Rolex Explorer II Legacy, you’ll understand why this watch is exactly the kind of watch I’m most happy to have on my wrist and to my (myself) dismay. Foretold of his coming
Black Bee Pro. I think it’s a highly specialized and slightly more productive version of Black Bay, perhaps something the extended Black Bay family has to do with their distant but superior cousins in the Pelagos range. The fact that the BlackBerry Pro has made a way more surprising but completely comfortable. Tudor has long stood for offering the most affordable expression of the Rolex ethos, and in this case, they’ve chosen a ring as a timepiece to base the BlackBee Pro on the general vibe of the Explorer II and the aesthetic in particular. In part – reference 1655.
The unique spirit of the story, the BlackBerry Pro, as mentioned, is 39mm wide with a steel case, matte black dial, bright yellow GMT hands and a very unique 24-hour fixed steel bezel. The thickness is 14.6mm including the dome sapphire, and is 47mm. The lug width is 20mm, the lugs are undrilled, the crystal is sapphire, and the caseback is closed. The crown, a new design for the Black Bay Tudor line, is screw-down and has a water resistance of 200 meters.
Seen dead on first glance, the BlackBerry Pro is actually very similar to the 1655 Explorer II. In other words, in my estimation, nothing bad. The dial is very different in execution, as is the large unprotected crown, but the bezel is such a unique and recognizable frame that my mind (and maybe yours) immediately goes to the original Explorer II. In fact, the dial, which is matte black and domed, is very Tudor and definitely has a Black Bay design ethos.
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Offered on a strap, a rubber/fabric hybrid strap, or a black and yellow version of Tudor’s much-loved fabric strap like the Natto, the Black B Pro gets a vintage watch basecamp vibe. The GMT watch with the beauty they get is their present – an extensive history of repetition of the Black Bay design language. From the large, fully matte hands and markers to the yellow GMT hands and the matching dial highlights, the Black Bee Pro (BBP?) is affordable and beautiful, but has a harsher tone that’s more Northern Flag than Black Bay. It is felt a lot. I think it’s a great visual that gives the viewer attention to detail while removing many subtle design elements. Yes, it’s a pretty subtle sports watch, but it’s mostly in my viewing zone and I find the BlackBerry Pro’s appeal to be sharp and unique.
On the wrist, I would say that the Black Bay Pro largely lives up to my expectations. It wears well, especially with the wear strap, which helps reduce bulk and keeps the watch flat and snug on my 7-inch wrist. This 39mm width is beautiful, and largely known for Tudor after the Black Bay fifty-eight wide definition. However, the BlackBerry Pro doesn’t share Fifty Eight’s beautiful aspect ratio, largely due to its flimsy case. At 14.6mm, it doesn’t do much to hide its height from your eyes, but I didn’t find it hard on the wrist. I think it might feel a bit unbalanced or too heavy, but when worn, the proportions feel good and I don’t think the thickness is a deal breaker at all.
Compared to the BlackBerry GMT, the BlackBerry Pro is a few tenths of a millimeter thinner and 3 millimeters shorter. I’ve written a thing or two about the BB GMT and you’ll still love it, but if you want something smaller but with the same performance, take a good look at the BlackBerry Pro.
And there’s a reason the BB GMT and BlackBerry Pro share some of the top-flight GMT performance — they use the same movement. As I mentioned in our first daily Watches & Wonders podcast, I have to bite the bullet here as I said, for years, I don’t think Tudor could fit the MT5652 in a case that would less than 41mm. Apparently, I was wrong, and they’ve done it while still offering 200m water resistance.
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Controlled via the crown, the MT5652 has a 70-hour power reserve, is self-winding, COSC certified and offers local jump GMT. For those who are not sure what I mean by local jump, it means that if you are traveling to another time zone, you can go back or forward without affecting the position of the other hands. So, if you set both the clock hand and the GMT hand in your home time zone, when you move to the new time zone, you switch back or forth to the original clock hand to show the local time while The 24-hour GMT hand continues. . To display home time. As it should be, the date is also linked to the actual clock, so if you pass midnight, the date will move accordingly.
Where the BB GMT has a 24-hour bezel that offers the ability to track three time zones (local, UTC, and offset from UTC), the Black Bee Pro and its fixed bezel follow the Explorer II format, and specifically 16550 because the first generation 1655 never showed two different time zones but showed 24-hour time with a fourth hand.
Compared aesthetically to the BB GMT, the BlackBerry Pro has a similar layout but very different execution. The markers use a type of luminous ceramic and monoblock, which helps to effectively increase the amount of lime on the dial. The hands and markers aren’t white or really old, but a yellow-yellow-white that changes intensity based on ambient light. The bezels are also completely matte with matte surrounds, further distinguishing the BlackBerry Pro from its siblings.
But of the design elements of the BlackBerry Pro, I think the GMT hands are my favorite. Coming down to the minute path, it is a rich, highly decorated yellow and its shape is flat with the last rounded point. Unlike the BB GMT, the bright diamond-shaped bezel is set inward from the top of the hand. I think it’s well balanced, very acceptable and looks great. Also worth noting is the crystal design, which is more modern than seen in the Black Bay line. Instead of the vintage effect box crystal we’re used to, the Black Bay Pro has a beautiful domed crystal that runs to the edge of the bezel and reduces glare and fringing. sounds good.
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Pricing for the BlackBerry Pro is in line with what we’ve come to expect from Tudor. One of the two straps will cost $3,675 and the bracelet will go up to $4,000. Compare that to the Black Bay GMT, which starts at $3,850, or the Black Bay Eighty-Fifty, which starts at $3,475. For a properly made Tudor and functioning GMT movement, not bad at all.
Personally, I’d probably go for a cloth strap and then just fit a traditional nato or a nice medium thick leather strap. That said, the bracelet is very stylish and features a newly designed clasp with the brand’s T-Fit micro-adjustment system. If you like the bracelet, it’s almost certainly worth the small premium and it’s a great match for the BlackBerry Pro. The hybrid strap also feels and looks great, but uses an appliqué style buckle that covers most of the strap. You should definitely try it on your hand because the material is soft and comfortable.
So there you have it, the BlackBerry Pro. As the GMT market becomes more popular and competitive (see recent releases from Longines and Grand Seiko), Tudor follows suit with their offerings.
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